I know more or less how this is done, I am concerned with how easily it is done on a 20 year old car and what tools are needed.

I've always wanted Captain Black to be higher at the back & maybe a bit lower at the front but have been fearful that the Haynes type descriptions I've read are hiding the true realities.

All you need, tool-wise, is a 9mm spanner or a pair of moles/water-pump wrench - and a trolleyjack.

Give it all a damn good spray with penetrating oil every day for the previous week if you're concerned it's going to be seized.

Ive always used plus gas or WD40 type stuff and sprayed them days before doing a job....

...but the other day I was in the local Halfords and spotted something called "Shock and Unlock"....so far its worked a real treat so something else to give a go and save your knuckles maybe when the mole grips slip !

<quick google>
Penetrating oil mixed with freeze spray.

Aye, it'd do it, but I can't be the only one thinking the potential for injury has just rocketed...

"I'll hold that, spray it, then get my fingers out the way just before I hit it... Oh, my finger's frozen to it... <OUCH!>"

<thinks>
Whip-round to buy Russ a can, then film the results for YouTube?

You've been framed mate, Then we can use the £250 that fat arsed Lisa Riley will dish me out to buy stickers, banners and website stuff. And Gin.

To answer the original question, jack both wheels one side off the ground and support on stands. (i find it's sometimes better to let the rear wheel sit on the ground a little, as it stops the tierods fouling the chassis.) Then screw/unscrew the rods as required. I forget the ratio of tierod movement to ride hieght difference, but I'd say you won't need to go more than half an inch each way.

I raised the suspension abit on my 4x4, and now driving around it is really unconfortable but apprently the springs are harder than normal 2cv's so i do not know!

Thanks for the replies. I hope it is indeed as easy as it sounds......I remember seeing a tool for sale by one of the big traders at the last 2CVGB National meeting. It just looked like the end of a spanner which had been cut off. I take it nothing is really needed other than a normal spanner.

Spanners has a proper tool for it, he lent it to me recently (cheers mate!) it's the way forward! Bloody hard to find them secondhand though. The tool you can buy which is a 27mm (IIRC) hex, about an inch long with a 9mm slot milled into it is useful, I've found if you give them a good lubing for a while beforehand and keep them greased you will probably be able to do it with a pair of molegrips. Are you going to london-brighton next week? I can talk you through it there if you like.

You need to remove the shock absorbers to get proper access. If the thread on the tie rods, inside the tie rod ends eyes are not swollen due to rust, you can turn them with a medium size shifter. Yes the 9 mm open ended spanner can be used but only if the tie rods can turn easily. If they are stuck only heat can get you out of trouble by heating up the tie rod end eyes. Sometimes you have no option but to cut them off and replace them.
This tool is very good but expensive. You can get the hex made and use a shifter.


IMO the 2cv has a beautiful ride when set to factory setting. Why change?