Franzose is selling this one, which I'm using but can be difficult to use. You only two options when fitting it to the tie rod. However a very good tool when the body is off the chassis.

The first little tool in your picture is the one I saw. I didn't see the great advantage of it.

The reason I fancy changing the heights is more because the car seems a bit low at the back. I have looked at lots of pictures in brochures etc and Citroen themselves seemed very inconsistant. Someone suggested that over time the springs can sag and the heights will therefore need adjusting.

Thanks for the offer Russ but I won't be going. Takes long enough to get to London from here, let alone then do a jaunt off to Brighton!

I'm not convinced that heating the tie rod ends is the only solution, especially as 'too much' heat can mean the end for the rods.
Someone I know did that with a set of aks400 suspension, going a bit OTT with the oxy-acetylene gear.
The method I use with rods which are rusted solid has never failed (yet ) and involves tapping the 'necked' section of the tie rod end with a small hammer, using a club hammer as an anvil behind the tie rod end.

Eventually this will loosen any rust binding the parts together and the next step is to clean the section of thread nearest the end so that the rod can be wound _inwards_ a few turns.
Next, drill a small hole (2mm ?) at the point where the rod end begins to increase in diameter, so that the tip of a scribe can be pushed inwards against the thread. The same drilling can be used for injecting WD40 or similar and as the rod is wound outwards again, the scribe will clear any rust on the rod before it can lock the thread again.

It may be necessary to go forwards and backwards a few times, so plenty of patience will help with this approach, but I'd rather go slow and steady and be able to rescue a set of old forged eyes and their canisters, than rush in and wreck them...

ken

I did this to mine to mine just before Easter because she was low at the back, 4 people in her and you were on the stops.

The biggest issue I had was the 20 years of gunk caked over the tie rods. I donned some goggles and got in with a wire brush and some WD40.

As I was adjusting it I decided I may as well do the knife edges too so I completely unwound the tie rod and took the knife edges out to check the wear. Once I'd got the tie loops off and the knife edges out i gave them a good brushing and dumped the whole lot in some wd40 to give it a thorough clean. The wear to the knife edges was minimal which is good

Putting it back together I packed grease into the loops and it all seems good. The ride isn't really harder and I swear she goes better! Coming back from CZ theres gonna be 3 of us and 3 weeks worth of stuff so we need all the height we can get!

You may also need an 18mm spanner. I had two locking nuts on the thread of the tie rod at the back - but I don't think all cars have this. The mehari does at the back but not the front . The seem to just lock the tie rod in place

I had trouble at the front getting the knife edge out because of the angle of the swing arm. I ended up with the car chassis' about 2ft up on axle stands and jacked the front wheel up on the swing arm to get some extra clearance - that may not be necessary, probably just me

An interesting thing i did discover: My rear near side wheel never comes off the ground, no matter how high you jack the car. On looking at the underneath of the car there's a big dent in the floor (which i guess acts as the stop) - would this indicate that at some point my cars left the ground quickly and the wheel's dropped with enough force to dent the floor

It sounds like the rear arm stop is bend or missing. Look for the little ear attached to the inner side off the arm. It should rest on the aluminium spacer between the chassis and the rear axel. When the little ear is missing the next stop is the tie rod end eye bracket hitting the underneath floor.

You need one of these.

that would be quite useful...