@Harley: Your brainwave is true there's an offset of about 6 degrees in this reading (need to programm that, however numbers don't tell all, when my engine revs well without pinking then for me it is allright be it 10 degrees, 30 or 41 on the screen...

@ joolz: How is it not pinging? When a (2cv) engine is working hard let's assume the most effective way is when the spark comes in at 30 degrees before top dead center. (The fuel must be burned thru the hole cilinder the power has to be develloped this takes about 30 degrees at 6000rpm). Now here it comes when an engine doesn't need to work hard (cruising along 45 miles in a 2cv) this all changes, it takes longer to burn all the fuell it takes longer to devellop the power
so you need more advance (roughly about 10 degrees) so this is what you see on the screen.

Now theres a very simple way you can messure if an engine is working hard or not.. Messuring the airpressure in the inlet manifold. Working hard it is almost the same pressure as in openair.
Cruising along it is rougly about 75-60% of that so you are creating a vacuum. Now you can messure this (I do this (at the moment) with a Visa vacuum box witch is only an on and off switch
when you have a vacuum the switch goes on and 1-2-spark creats up to 10 degrees of extra advance (+0.2 degrees per revelution (above 1250rpm till max 10 degrees) so then your getting all the power out of your fuell making it more fuellefficient.

The next stage on 1-2-Spark is to integrate a vacuumsensor and read it out and giving a infinitive vacuum advance (this is what Megasquirt does 12 steps and calculate extra advance) I think this will save you about 1 or 2 liters of fuel every 100km/h...

I hope you understand now.

Here's a new version of the software (version 3.28) yes it is getting the real deal now need already to number them...... now it should open with no warnings (searching for an existing comport)

You can push the buttons and see how the screens pop up......

Ah thanks, I understand now.

Theres a question about standard coil wasted spark, twin spark, sequential spark
so here are the possibilities of 1-2- Spark.........

first 2 pics of 1-2- spark.

standard fitting 1 ignitiondriver, (the first component you see)

beneith all the possibilities; However I can't see any advantige
doing this (maybe twinspark is more fuelefficient and more power) but somebody needs to proof me that.


now the full mounty 4 ignitiondrivers (you can make a V8 running on this if it is necessary...)

So here the possibilities for a 2cv....

A) 1 ignitiondriver - 1 coil wasted spark, (2cv/visa yellow (Standard)
(again this works fine for me (and Citroen).
B) 2 ignitiondrivers - 2 seperate coils 1 plug each wasted spark, (universal coils)
C) 2 ignitiondrivers - 2 coils on cop wasted spark(coils on plug)
D) 2 ignitiondrivers - 2 separate coils wasted spark twinspark (2cv/visa yellow Harley)
(now this can bring some advantige any vollonteers to proof that)
This all you can do now already.

So soon you can do this:
E) 2 ignitiondrivers - 2 seperate coils 1 plug each sequentiial (universal coils)
F) 2 ignitiondrivers - 2 coils on cop sequential (coils on plug)
G) 2 ignitiondrivers - 2 separate coils sequential spark (2cv/visa yellow Harley twin spark))

H) 4 ignitiondrivers - 4 seperate coils sequential spark twinspark (4 universal coils each 1 plug)
I) 4 ignitiondrivers - 4 coils on cop sequential (coil on cop)

So tell me which option you want and I make it for you. btw. each extra ignitiondriver mounted will set you back 7,50 euro........

As you see theoreticly it can do 4 cilinder sequential already or a V8 wasted spark need only to programm it (peace of cake (not).

Will you be bolting a heatsink to the ignition driver/s?

Yes I will, I,ve added some space between the drivers to mount a heatsink (alu T bar or somethng like that) however my prototype is running all the time without it it even doesn.t feel hot when the dwelltime is right......

That's interesting LPGO!

Question; if using option D, do you see a problem with using the same 'Harley' coil to run both plugs in the one cylinder, instead of one in each like standard 2cv?

The reason I ask is that an ignition specialist I emailed said:
"Are you intending to use both outlets of the same coil to fire one cylinder? If so this is not recommended as it may place a much higher load on the coil than it was designed for. The correct way to fire a dual outlet coil is with one end into a live cylinder under compression and the other into a dead cylinder under exhaust. If you place both ends of the coil into the same cylinder it will be forded to generate much higher voltage possibly exceeding the insulation rating."

Can you see a problem?

Harley

I think there's a point BUT........ Setting the dwelltime right by computer and your coils
don't get any stress, a normal coil running on points get at least 10 times more (longer) current then a coil runnning on my chip so I think it will work, but feel free to test it (otherwise I will test it myself but that can take another year or so) because I don't see the real advantige of it. When somebody proofs that it gives you 5 more HP
or 2 liters of fuel less on 100km then I will test it immidaiatly (?!!>?(*&).......

I'm not convinced by that yet, but then I am naturally cynical. Is it really that much harder to force a spark across a plug surrounded by fuel/air mix, than one surrounded by exhaust gas? If it is then wouldn't closing up the plug gaps counteract the problem? Otherwise just a differently rated coil? Either way, I wouldn't let it knock that idea on the head.

It is far more difficult to make a spark in exhaust then in fuel/air mixure thats why a wasted spark works anyway. All the coils energie goes to the side of the pressurised cilinder.
I think it will work...... so again feel free to try it... or search the internet for anyone who already did it.
B.t.w. there are whole books writen about this them.


Got my own troubles at the moment. The new PCB runs fine but I can't get any connection to the pc (sh&t).