Viking had nice 2cv specific ones that clamp on to the fins on the sump(oil pan)

cant see how that Synth would cause any problems at -23 its going to need all the help it can get
The Finnish 2cv guild had published stuff for extreme cold -insulate the engine bay, blank off oil cooler with a plastic card cut from an oil can etc

I thought this had potential to make an argument, so I'm gonna put it here.

What does the 123 EVO actually do better than the normal 123 or points, now I know it claims to make the car the best most perfect car in the world, but I want to hear from people who spent the extra money, is it worth it?

123/evo has an vacuum-advance, and settings for different engines..

And your longbook says D*lly.

Since this thread includes the term "tyres", I hope it's appropriate to use it for the following.
The original/early 2CV's with 125x15's would have used tubed type with rims which, I'm pretty sure were not of the "safety" type - ie no "safety hump" incorporated into the rim profile.
Since those days of long ago there has been a change in tyre & rim technology.
So ... we can now purchase tubeless 125's and so far as I can see, there exists a so-called "safety hump" on the outer side of the rim (on my '89 D*lly). Take a good look at some of the very early rims and let me know if you do/do not have a safety hump rolled into the rim profile. I would very much doubt the earliest cars had such.
Recommended 2CV tyre pressures are 20 front, 26 rear. What do you think ... is 20psi ok to use on a safety rim wheel with a 125 tubeless tyre and no tube?

The early 2CV had 400mm rims which is closer to 16inch than the later 15s which I think is 380mm

Not connected to my previous posting below, but reading up on some recent tech threads I can't help but think that some people are hellbent on 'let's try and improve on something that was perfect to begin with' and will probably end up ruining their car. I'd personally leave the clutch and flywheel well alone as they do their job . I just drives my 2CV with abandon and just enjoys the drive. It's like I've said to Spanners of this parish-I jumps in the 2CV and know I'll get there, whereas with the modern hack (the C4) I'm constantly worried that a warning light or three will appear on the display accompanied with a dreaded beep and the cure will cost not only an arm and a leg but quite a bit more besides. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!

Fair enough - but the point I'm really on about here is the rim cross-section, so I'm still hoping to hear from someone who can distinguish between a safety and non-safety rim. From distant memory, safety wheels (ie rims) didn't come onto the scene until the mid 50's or thereabouts. Chrysler were among the first to use them, but when the patent ran out it was open to all manufacturers to use them.
Thanks for the response Jonathan - much appreciated.

Jonathan,
I hope that saying isn't misinterpreted as meaning 'don't bother with regular maintenance and adjustments', as some folk seem to do.

All that tedious stuff such as oil changes for engine and gearbox, greasing kingpins and knife edges, checking and adjusting valve clearances & clutch pedal free play, adjusting brake shoe clearances and so on should be carried at the specified intervals, or sooner in some cases.

Been working on a Mehari this week which was used by some sort of 'adventure' enterprise in France until purchased recently by the present owner.
Since she intends taking it on Raid Iceland later this year, it needed to be serviced and checked over.
It wasn't too encouraging to find that the exhaust valve clearances were almost non-existent, 0.05mm on one side and 0.01 on the other.
One more long fast trip and that would have been a set of burnt valves to sort out...



@ petitepoupée,
sorry, almost veered right off-topic there.
I've had plenty of cars turn up for servicing with the tyre pressures lower than 15 psi, due to neglect of regular checks by their owners.
Apart from cr@p handling, the immediate effect seems to be accelerated wear on the outer edges of the tread, although in the long term there's also likely to be a reduction in service life due to the tyres running hotter.
I run the tyres on all of our Dyanes at Citroen's recommended pressures of 20 psi front and 26 rear, so don't understand why you'd have any reservations about using 20 psi.

No Ken, I wasn't talking about routine maintenance, but about moving away from what was designed and fitted to the car by Citroen (there are of course real improvements over original fitment, mainly due to more recent engineering solutions that would clearly work and improve the 2CV).