Bad stuff...I've got serious gear selection trouble; thing is, i can't work out whether it's a worn down graphite thrust bearing (as this is) or the clutch itself. The thrust bearing was replaced only about 2 years ago, but in that time it's needed much 'tightening' at the thread end of the cable, to get that 0.5mm clearance - and to stop it squealing etc. - i've also marinaded the graphite in clean oil loads.....

i tightened it up again the other day and it was fine for a few days. On the way home tonight - driving along, engine warm - foot on clutch to select 4th on the bypass and.....cccrrrunch / squeal / crunch / bad noises...!!!

totally unable to select gears, got home through gauging the gear timings / winging it...

so as it stands - engine can be idling warm, then - foot just touching the pedal, and it makes the dreaded noises and kills the engine instantly....so that's puzzled me - is it the bearing or the clutch???

when i was managing to get it home, it also seemed to slip when i was doing about 35 mph in 4th (a sign of clutch plate gone??) but then parked up, handbrake on tight, revved it up, tried to get it into 1st and managed for a moment - no slipping, and the car did move forward a little (so handbrake may need adjusting)

either way the fronts coming off and i've got to split the engine and box....but what do people think - order a thrust bearing only and get on with it myself, or get the whole clutch kit and get a garage to do it....not enough knowledge to do a full clutch replacement

help please folks...

Thanks
Will

. I had the same, when the graphite gets old it can suddenly disintegrate into pieces an then you can't disengage the clutch anymore. Luckely I found a real metal bearing which exactly fits in place of the graphite bearing, this solved my problem, I assume it's your problem to.

BTW. when your clutch was good yesterday, it will be good today when a clutch starts to slip you will notice it several times getting worse and worse in weeks not in 1 day.....

Changing a clutch is dead easy, six bolts and it's done. Make sure you get a kit with an aligning tool though. I'd replace the bearing and the clutch, I think the problem you're having is the wanky graphite bearings, I had so many attempts at adjusting and oiling the one in my last ami and don't think I ever got it right.

I don't know but I'm just thinking...

If the graphite bearing has started disintegrating then not only is it not disengaging the clutch properly, maybe it is also jamming on the clutch fingers and stalling the engine. The slipping might be caused by some of the broken graphite getting between the plates.

Like Russ says, changing a clutch isn't difficult, if you can change the release bearing that's 95% of the job, just make sure you've got an aligning tool.

If you decide to go the whole hog and fit a later gearbox, I've learnt quite a bit about the process over the last few months.

Thanks everyone. The point about the clutch itself not suddenly failing is true. It was fine one minute, totally unable to use it the next, so I think it must be the thrust bearing.

Do I need an alignment tool to replace the thrust bearing? from memory, the lugs sit into the arm / bracket - which in turn is centred using washers at both ends of the dowel??

Ipgo - this metal bearing you used to replace the graphite - are these readily available? do you have a contact?? thanks

I don't think the graphite has broken up - i can't see any bits missing when i shine torch on it....you can see anything

just got to wait for it to warm up a bit now!!! you need to feel your hands to do this !!!!

Thanks
Will

I take it you've inspected the cable?

[quote="Willami"]Thanks everyone. Ipgo - this metal bearing you used to replace the graphite - are these readily available? do you have a contact?? thanks

I don't think the graphite has broken up - i can't see any bits missing when i shine torch on it....you can see anything

/quote]

I think you can try the AVN.... Ami vereniging nederland, Mister Han Goosens.
(He earns a statue) techcomm@amivereniging.nl
Wenn anyone then they. Please mention my name to him "Geo" from the 2cv turbo and 4x4's


Otherwise you could try
OldtimerService Renkens-Rohner
E-Mail: renke047@planet.nl
TEL: (0031)-0455323254
Mobiel: (0031)-0651503320

The graphite has to be about 1cm thicker then the metal ring where in fits in (wenn I remember right this has been about 15 years ago for me), maybe you only see the metal holder??

Other options are:
Metal ring has left the clutch fork
The axle from the clutch fork is dislocated (I don't believe that the axle can break)
The clutchfork is bended or broken (if seen this several times (bended and one broken this is a possibility)
Combination from all this..............

Please let us know what the reason is... bon chance

Not usually. You only need the alignment tool if you remove the clutch plate from the flywheel. But if you're a bit ham-fisted and unlucky when separating the engine from the gearbox it's possible (but not easy) to knock the plate out of alignment, in which case you'll need to loosen the clutch cover set screws to allow the plate to be re-aligned and then re-tighten the screws. The correct tool is best (the one which comes with the Valeo kit is a simple blow-moulded bit of plastic and does the job just fine), but in the past I've used thick wooden dowelling or even just carefully measured all round to ensure concentricity. I've also played my luck and aligned visually on some cars, but it's not something to be done by choice as it's easy to misjudge.

Clutch alignment is to ensure that the hole in the middle of the clutch plate into which the gearbox input shaft locates is located dead-central. If it isn't, you can't fit the gearbox back on. Don't forget to clean the input shaft splines and then smear a very small amount of Copperslip grease onto them before reassembly, too little is far better than too much.

Yes, cable and thread is fine. Thanks