whilst changing my alternator belt this morning, i had a quick look while the fan was off, at the oil cooler, looked find,

then looking at the cylnders, i saw a bolt, with a pipe attacked to it, bolted to the head i believe, is this the oil pipe(one on each sideobviously)
looking at the pipe, they looked fairly rusty, is it a case of wait till it leaks? or is it a problem

thanks

Like all these things James it depends on what you want to achieve. The pipes you refer to deliver oil to the cylinder head and rocker assembly. They do rust away and do fail. If you mess with them now and they break then you can't run the car.

If you think they look in poor condition get replacements before you on-do them. When you do remove them look out for the little copper washers on both sides of the union that attaches them.

i havent touched them i carried on and did alt belt nd put car back together now,
well i think ill put it on the list of things to do (eventually) and get some replacements.
i want to achieve non leaky pipes (there not leaking yet though)
i assume they deliever it from the sump via a pump? looks like a bastard to replace the pipes, non the less if its neccasary, so be it, best get the haynes manual 'oot

ah yes looking on ecas, (stolen pic from ecas)

doesnt look too dificalt after all

http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/flexible-feed-pipe-assembly-2cv6-suitable-cars-notes-p-1022.html

looks quite good, rather spend an extra £20 and go stainless

was this the copper thing you where on about? as i see that "kit" comes with 2 copper gaskets per, pipe end

Yup thats the bobby. They are very nice pipes and well worth buying if you intend to keep the car a long time. And yes they are the copper washers, they fit both sides of the unions. Its an easy job if you have the front stripped off.

i shall get some soon then, looking at roys photo, really helps, looks very easy
not much in the haynes manual abuot it, so i will take the book tonight and read it in bed
i intend to keep the car as long as i can, my future plans is when i have a family to keep the 2cv, and get an ami also, use the ami as a family car, but thats way off yet

just removeing the cowling doesnt look to easy, but then again ill give it a try before i winge about it!
i like the look of those oil pipes, flexible, the ones on the car now look like if you where to fart near them then they would fracture

do i need to bleed the oil pipes or will nature do its thing when running the engine after??

I like that . Yes nature will sort it for you, just let the engine tick over for 30 seconds before you rev it up.

not a 5 minute job as the engine needs to be jacked and supported while the fan cowling comes off

suppose cutting the old ones and being able to thread the braided ones makes life easier

they dont need bleeding as the main purpose is to cool the exhaust valve and it will purge itself before youve got your seatbelt done up

take care and heed the stuff on here about reducing the torque figure for the bolts by about half

Sean

If you've got a digital camera I find it helps to take loads of pictures as you go along, so you can see how everything goes together again.

I spent ages trying to work out how to fit all the cowling bits back on again, it's like one of those chinese puzzles!

engine jacked to get cowlings off? didnt realise that i assume i undo the box and just jack the engine up, is there really no way to get cowlings off without removing the engine in the air a bit???