Bad news, it's failed it's MoT on a worn 'track rod end' and because I'm a disorganised tit, I haven't allowed enough time to order anything before I need it on friday.

I've pulled it apart to have a look and I know what I should be doing, but is there any acceptable 'bodge' that'll allow me to MoT the car tomorrow. I wondered if I could grind the ball round again, or put some shims under the spring so the play was undetectable, or something.

Just out of curiosity I took the spring out, turned it onto full lock and tightened the castle screw right up. And then with the steering straight ahead again there was a lot of rattle in it.

In the event that I have to do it properly, what do I need to replace? just the steering arm or the cups as well?

Joolz,
things must be bad if you can't find a serviceable s/h steering arm in la belle France...

As a quick and dirty fix, you can grind (or even file) the ball so it's more spherical than oval.
Those ridges at the edge of the swept area will give you a guide as to where you need to remove metal.
If there's a good tool shop nearby, some of those small 'grinding stones on a stick' even have a spherical depression in the end, which can be used to smooth things off after the rough cut with a flap wheel or file...

As long as the cups aren't damaged, they can go back in.
edit: The spring must be fitted.

Don't forget to 'adjust' the castle nut at full lock, btw.
Left lock for work on the left hand side and vice versa.

ken.

Thanks Ken, there are actually a couple of secondhand ones around here that I could go and check, I had automatically assumed that they wouldn't be much better, but I guess beggars can't be choosers.

When putting it back together what's the procedure with the castle nut? (With it on full lock) tighten it fully, then back off to the previous slot?

And is it the same for a new one but without the needing to put it on full lock bit?

Hi Joolz,
with a dodgy ball, full lock towards the side you're working on, tighten the castle nut fully, then back it off to the first available slot.
(That's because you're trying to minimise/disguise free play in the area of most wear, which is usally in the 'straight ahead' position.)
Move the steering through its full range of movement, so that you're sure it's not binding on the ball at any position. It's unlikely, as you will have adjusted it at its tightest spot, but better to be safe than sorry...

With a new steering arm, it's set at straight ahead, tightened fully then backed off 1/6th turn, because the ball oughta be perfickly ball shaped (at the price you just paid for it ).

ken