hello, i did search this before posting but couldnt see it, maybe im being blind?

but what grease should i use on my king pins, and where can i get it from?

also, of topic a bit, but im considering doing a restore of my 2cv slowly bit by bit, and want to take the engine out, paint the engine bay (mostly clean it if im honest) but any bits need painting then to paint, how easy is it to remove the engine, (ive done a fair bit mechanicly on other engines but never on a 2cv) any advice would be grateful,
thanks

I would recommend getting a haynes manual (if you don't have one already) as it has the info you need.....I would have to dig mine out

As regards the engine removal....it is kind of subjective,relative too your skill level, but I removed the engine on my old AMI 8 when I was 14, using just the haynes manual as a source (pre-internet days )

remember that you can remove the inner and outer wings and bodywork around the engine.....if your don't feel up to removing it...and that would make it much easier to clean.

I say, if it isn't your only car, do it...you'll learn loads about your beast.

ive got a haynes manual and a maintenece hand book, havent had a chance to sit down and read them to be honest, but i may do that!!

also, on my mot, an advisery of play in the offside kingpin, as well (no mentioned in mot but just one of those things) the sterring wheel is at 7 o clcok when im driving in a straight line, are these two things connected, and should i get my kingpin replaced? (spare set sitting on my bed side table!!) and my 2cv is my only car (would never want any other car!!)

i just use ordinary grease on kingpins , castrol LM etc that sort of thing,a few squirts every 1000 miles . And 2cv grease on the 2cv joint nipples.

Any grease is better than none ive used agricultural stuff on worn pins as its thicker and stickier than most as well as being waterproof, usually just use grey moly stuff as thats whats in the gun

As for removing the engine there is no real trauma with doing so, its easier to have the chassis on axle stands so that its not bouncing around when the lifting is needed

main loom comes apart at the LH hedlamp, disconnect the alt and the starter and hang it on the bulkhead

undo the headlamp ajuster and poke it back in to the cab

take the lamp bar off and put it somewhere where it cant fall over and smash both hedlamps

take off the choke wire cable and then dis connect the throttle cable

disconnect the heat exchangers

if your taking the 'box out as well then its speedo cable and clutch cable (depress the clutch pedal hold the wire at the bulkhead with a pair of pliers, lift the pedal and unhook the nipple from the yoke)

then its 2 front engin emounts under the front cross member and if you want the whole thing out split the drive shafts- which is easier if on axle stands with suspension arms drooping. Undo the 2 7mm (11mm spanner)nuts at the back of the
gearbox mount and get a beefy assistant help you to move it.

i usually split the box so leave the rear mount un touched, then its jack the unit under the belhousing untill the front is free of the chassis, undo the 4(6) belhousing nuts and gripping the exhaust manifold firmly pull and wiggle engine free
its heavy but usually manageable on your own

the box is easier now and with the starter off it has a convenient "carry handle"

the big bits should take minutes to do there will be one nut on the headlamp bar that will take 3 hours to do.....welcome to the world of 2cv

Sean

Thanks for the reply sean, sounds easyish!! But bolts will probs be rustes.

Ive got this marine grease, prevetnts corrosion etc, and is thick as anything!!

Also do i jack front up when i grease kingpins and ia it juat the one nipple either side? And if i should jack it whrres the beay jacking points for a standard jack?
Also whats the best way to prevent rust
thanks for your reply, doing a engine bay clean, going to make it immaculate!!

Sounds easyish enough to remove engine!
Thanks
james.

yes jack it so wheels off ground that lets the grease in to the thrust washers
rock the wheel lock to lock and if yor marine grease is of a suitable lubrication and not just a waterproofer then a bit of gentle heat on the stub housing to get it all lovely and flowing helps.

get a trolley jack (12quid from the cheapo german supermarkets often come out at this time of yera with axle stands), the original jack is best kept at the back of the garage as an ornament as unless you have sound sills it just crunches the body work

jack under the axle bolts if its an original chassis if its a good quality replacement just jack it anywhere on the main rail

best way to prevent rust!!!
keep it in a warm garage and never use it!

keep an eye on it and regularly get under neath with the preferred rust preventing wax and do the floors and sills under neath take the rear wings off a couple of times a year and underseal wax etc

drill some holes in the floor at the swages to let the water out,,cause you cant stop it coming in, its like a boat even if its functionally waterproof you still get condensation which ends up on the floor festering under the rubber mat

something under the mat like a netting or the mat you get in swimmingpools is recomended to let the air in.....i never used mats in the austeritymobile but she now insists on a level of luxury

sean