Hi all - I feel stupid asking all these questions.....the latest being....

oil level - car is on a flat road, no oil leaks from sump, not burning any oil (a tiny bit maybe) and i check the level say 30 minutes after a good run....so enough time to stay warm but drain down

however, i check my dipstick and it's about 5mm down from the low notch, so i give it 4/5 good glugs of 15/40.....wait til the next day and do the same as above - it's still at 5mm down from the low notch

this is an M28 - it's puzzling me but at the same time i don't want to put too much oil in.....another A Series quirk or what?

as always - thanks for any info.
Will

is it blowing oil into the airfilter box?

the sump is quite large ( to allow it to cool the oil) so it takes a fair bit nearly a litre to go from lowest to top mark on the dipstick, pull the dipstick out while you fill as it helps a bit, id fill it to top mark and see how long it takes to run it down to min-never does on my engine all the way from Edin to Most and back and never moved more than a mm on the dipstick.

Sean

cheers Sean that's great help.

Our Ami 6 did the same thing. The piston rings are worn out so some of the compression are ending in the sump pushing oil vapour through the carby and burning it. When driving at 60-80 I didn't notice the smoke from the exhaust but at idle I did + I had to top up often.
Have you tried a compression test.

Cheers Viking; is a compression test something i could do myself, if i buy a gauge? or should i take it to a garage?

i believe the engine was re-built with new piston rings etc. about 5000 miles ago. i don't race the car but i do get white smoke in the this cold weather - not black or blue / smelly oil burning....

W

Well one would think that the ''rebuild'' is done properly but you never know.
Did a compression test on a Sydney 2cv rebuild in Dec. The 2cv had new Visa pistons fitted. Test showed 90 psi and 125 psi, no good.
You can buy the tester, just remove the spark plugs and screw in the hose from the tester. Crank over the enige for a few seconds and read. Do it again with the throttle fully opened and read again. Also what does the spark plugs looks like. They are the window to your engine. Can you post pics of them?

I think it was a good job done, the seller had the man there that did it and he is well known in 2CV circles so wouldn't bullshit i don't reckon.

the plugs i replaced the other week - the old one's had no oil on them but were browny colour with scale on them - like limescale on water taps, not loads but enough. i know that is a symptom of something wrong?

noticed some mayo on oil filler cap too - but it is very damp & cold here at the moment....

cheers

Sounds like oil breather is f....d

Plugs looks like this

yup! looked quite alot like that one. The oil breather has been bypassed and fitted with one of these

http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/valve-cra ... -1401.html

i believe i similar gadget was discussed the otherday - like a black plastic bilge pump??

is the CPD i have serviceable???

thanks for all your advice on this Viking

I'm not familiar with Roy's unit. Best is to test the crank case pressure (negative or possitive) by fitting a water manometer.

http://www.vimeo.com/groups/27216/videos/7903339

Should always read min. 5 cm suction otherwise oil is pushed out somewhere