Hello

did a quick winter service recently with included changing the plugs, whilst i did this i remembered the car came with a few spares including some new HT leads. the existing ones 'looked' old - caked in WD40 / grime / soot mixture....let's swap them over!!!

bad idea - the car was lumpy, cutting out at junctions after a good bit of revving etc. etc.

tinkered a little with no luck, then decided to take a closer look at the leads. the new ones are black Beaugord (pardon spelling??) class C and the existing are red Beaugord class B...so logic told me B is 'better' than C - and i was right.

put the old ones back and it runs perfectly. the black ones are pending the bin....

probably an old tale but i'll tell it anyway as it's good to spread info....happy new year bytheway

(I JUST WENT ON ECAS TO CHECK MY SPELLING - AND I'VE ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION - THE SO SAY IFFY ONES ARE FOR 2CV ONLY - HOW CAN IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE)

Will

Any sign of misfiring,lumpy running,occassional lack of power .....the first thing I change is the plug leads.
I've been caught out too many times over many years of 2CV'ing to suspect anything else first .....[Oh,and the plug leads are also the easiest thing to begin with changing]

best regards
T.

Will,
have you checked the resistance of each of the leads, for comparison?
My guess is that the classification refers to the amount of RF suppression provided by a lead and that the Class C have greater overall resistance.

The fact that they didn't work too well with your coil also suggests that your coil's output may be borderline.
I had something similar with a Citroen 'special' recently, which had the coil mounted in a location that required leads to be made up.
Copper cored wire was used, with suppression provided in the spark plug caps. It wouldn't even start if caps with 10 kohm resistance were used, but started and ran well once these were replaced with 5 kohm type...

Dunno about leads for Amis, but the main difference between those suitable for a 2CV and those for a Dyane is to do with their lengths, since on a Dyane the coil is offset to one side instead of sited centrally.

ken.
( I'd never bin leads before testing both their resistance and insulation, the former with a multimeter and the latter with the 'water spray' test. )

Thanks Ken - again!!!

how would i test the resistance?

cheers
will

I fitted these om our Ami 6. No worries at all. Ami, 2cv and Dyane etc share the same cables.

Don't know why Ecas is saying 2cv only. The cables are the same except the caps.

http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/leads-onl ... -1111.html
Couldn't get the link to show the photo but here is the same from our web shop

as Ken says above, 2cv leads are a different length to those on a Dyane.

from what i can tell....

black Bougicord class C leads with caps at plug end - not great for me...
red Bougicord class B leads without caps - working well....

that is not to say ECAS's stock is not perfectly fine - just not seeming to work for me....don't want to do ECAS a dis-service

cheers......

Will,
any multimeter, either digital or analogue, should do the job.
Starting at one of the cheapest on Ebay...
< http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/600-005-mini-digi ... _599wt_681 >
Isn't Hockley quite close to Brummagem as well?

I think Sean recommends one for automotive use, capable of checking dwell amongst other stuff, but I don't know where that type can be bought.

ken


[quote="Willami"]Thanks Ken - again!!!

how would i test the resistance?

cheers
will

first on the gogle list for "automotive multimeter"

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4187-Automotive-Multi-Meter/dp/B0012M7S3C
and on a budget
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=222059&C=SO&U=strat15
Sean