I recently acquired a free parafin gun to connect to my compressor. I intend to drill some extra holes in the A, B and C pillars and spray the waxoyl in there. I think it would be better if I could get some sort of flexible 'wand' to attach to the end of the spout as the wand would actually get right inside the hollow pillars. I asked at a local Machine Mart but one itsn't listed in their catalogue. It looks like if I want one, I'll have to make one myself. Nothing similar found on Google either.

A few years ago a friend restored an old Land Rover, and to get waxoyl well and truly into the box section chassis, he made a device from a Camping Gaz bottle. He fitted a valve to the bottle and made a long wand from brake pipe and flexible hose, flattening and drilling tiny holes in the end. Waxoyl diluted with white spirit was poured into the gas bottle, and the bottle was then pressurised with a foot pump. The wand was then inserted well into the chassis and the waxoyl sprayed around.

I bought a schutz gun from e-bay about 9 quid. comes with the flexible 'wand' and its awesome, sprays it about all over the shop and fits directly to you 5 litre can of waxoyl.

I now have a very waxoyl'd chassis (and driveway)

Umm... Why didn't he just buy one of the Waxoyl kits which contains a pressurised sprayer...?

(Or, indeed, use a compressor?)

One thing that's become very clear whilst doing the AK, though - a lot of the problems are in places you could never hope to reach. Between skins. Behind sealant.

The way Finnegan's Waxoyl themselves used to do this was very simple - and I've just copied it myself.

Get your flexible rubber/plastic tube - ooh, around 5-6mm diameter will get it into most spaces. Fit a short 'countersunk-head' screw into the end - choose one that'll just 'bite' into the walls enough not to come loose. Screw it in until it is almost sealing off the end, and grind/file down the edges of the screw head until it's the same diam as the pipe so's it'll still fit into drilled 6mm holes.

The pumped Waxoyl will be sprayed crudely sideways by the 'countersunk' shape of the screw head.

I read on one of the VW forums a guy bought a length of flexible pipe more usually found in tropical fish tanks, then as DA says scewed a screw in to the end 'till it bites. He also made some holes in the pipe so as to give decent coverage of pillars/box sections.

[quote="toomany2cvs"]Umm... Why didn't he just buy one of the Waxoyl kits which contains a pressurised sprayer...?

/quote]

I thought it's generally accepted that those Waxoyl kits are not much cop. His homemade device was almost like a small bomb (!) and with a 8ft wand, could get right into the Land Rover chassis. I think I'll try the flexible pipe method and will let you know how effective it is. Thanks for the advice.

I should point out, my schutz gun was attached to my compressor, so it pushes the stuff a long way through everything

And yes as adrian says, the overlaps and twin skins are the icky bits that rust, for this i try and get as much waxoyl thinned with white spirit in to these areas, hopefully it will creep enough to do a job of sorts then the white spirit evaporates. (thats the theory anyway)

I gotta admit i personally don't rate Waxoyl. I much prefer to use Bilt Hamber's Dynax wax for box sections. You can buy it in 5 ltr tins or 750ml cans with a 30" wand attached. It's more expensive than Waxoyl, but if it offers better protection, then i'd rather pay a few quid extra.

Bilt Hamber are also producing UB wax which is a underbody seal for 'high-impact' areas.

If i bought the canned version of Waxoyl or Dynax what would i apply it with?

if you dont have a compressor 'zanne then i usued to use a squeezy pump bottle (like you get from garden centres for spraying small plants) with warmed waxoyl and white spirit mix tipped from big can into this, then lots of pumping, builds the hand muscles nicely ( dunno why you would want big hand muscles though, actually, dont answer that)