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 Strip n Dip 
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Firing on two.
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Joined: December 26th, 2008, 9:40 pm
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Location: Surrounded by 2cvs...
Post Re: Strip n Dip
twofifty AZU wrote:
Gas Mark 5 wrote:
What about the high zinc content paint on can get? If done properly how does that compare to galv/electro-plating?


It is very hard to overcoat. The idea behind galvafroid and similar high zinc coatings is that it functions as an anode. If there is an electrolyte, salty road spray to you and me, it effectively corrodes saving the steel.

It works great under wings and the like where appearance isn't that important, but used on a visible surface with shiny paint over it you tend to end up with the paint falling off.

To be honest it is a bit pointless in that application. Perforation pretty much always starts inside box sections and from edges, not in the middle of a panel. Conventional decent quality paint will preserve a sheet of steel pretty much indefinitely providing the coating is intact. If you use a good quality anti rust wax inside the box sections, keep drain holes free and don't allow mud to build up corrosion can be kept at bay.

Bilt Hamber Dynax is very effective. http://www.bilthamber.com/dynaxs50.html


I had a chat with a (multi-brand) specialist paint supplier - the "cold-galv" zinc paints are, apparently, great on freshly blasted steel. BUT if the steel's only "mechanically cleaned" (rotary wirebrush to you'n'me), it's not that great - it can't properly bond - and you're better with a more traditional primer. Which was cheaper, so they can't be accused of hard-sell.

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February 2nd, 2011, 8:18 pm
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Joined: October 7th, 2009, 12:10 pm
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
I think having it dipped or otherwise de-rusted, then primed with this stuff gets my vote. It's a lot cheaper than any coating, and epoxy is far better than other primer paints for metal protection. http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=404984&p_n=404984

2-pack paint over this stuff and you're bombproof.

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February 2nd, 2011, 8:27 pm
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Joined: October 23rd, 2009, 10:41 pm
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
No, GM5, it wasn't Metallisation that I worked for!

I went on Metallisation's site on Sunday, and a sales person is now leaving daily messages for me! Little does he know that I'm a penniless 2CV driver!!

250: I guess anything would be worth it if it arrests the really aggressive rusting on parts like the floors, rear sweeps, bonnet hinges, etc... It'd be a case of weighing up the costs vs. the overall time saved on jobs like that, I suppose.

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February 2nd, 2011, 8:29 pm
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
Smiffy wrote:
No, GM5, it wasn't Metallisation that I worked for!

I went on Metallisation's site on Sunday, and a sales person is now leaving daily messages for me! Little does he know that I'm a penniless 2CV driver!!

250: I guess anything would be worth it if it arrests the really aggressive rusting on parts like the floors, rear sweeps, bonnet hinges, etc... It'd be a case of weighing up the costs vs. the overall time saved on jobs like that, I suppose.


But that kind of rust starts in seams and cavities. I don't doubt the effectiveness of metal spraying as a process, on something like a sandblasted suspension arm it'll work brilliantly. I just doubt it is the most effective way of protecting vulnerable and inaccessable bits in a body shell.

There isn't anything especially magic about stopping rust, keep it clean, keep it dry, stop oxygen and electrolyte getting to the steel and it won't rust. The point is that it is an irreversible process. Most of us don't look at a clean piece of steel and think "I need to stop oxygen and electrolyte from getting to that". most of us, including me think "lovely, no work to do there".

Two years later we wonder how we're going to sort the rust which we could have prevented.


February 2nd, 2011, 11:16 pm
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Joined: April 24th, 2010, 10:01 am
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
after re reading this post and noticing in my usual style, that im keen to do something and then do bugger all about it, and forget, ive emailed the company to see the logistics costs etc etc, so i can see about it, but it seems a lot cheaper than spending money on repairs in the future, and whilst my car is immaculate it would seem feesable to do it rather than fix it up when it degrades in 5 or so years,
depending if i can save up enough, and what they say about the logistics of it all, bending panels and other things, i would go for it

Having a completly rust proof 2cv would be amazing, id love to be less careful with it, saying that, im off to wash it in a minute in the dark ;)

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1988 2cv 652cc
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1998 Daihatsu Hijet 1300cc
2005 Susuki Bandit 650cc


October 20th, 2011, 8:13 pm
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
Jameswallace wrote:
im off to wash it in a minute in the dark ;)


Don't wash it to vigorously in the dark... it will fall off... :mrgreen:

Harley

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October 21st, 2011, 1:23 am
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
I ended uP building shelving instead

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1988 2cv 652cc
1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 3000cc runs on Bio Diesel
2004 Toyota Landcruiser Amazon 4200cc runs on Bio Diesel
1998 Daihatsu Hijet 1300cc
2005 Susuki Bandit 650cc


October 21st, 2011, 8:21 am
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Joined: February 11th, 2009, 12:32 am
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
James, I think galvansing your car is a great idea, however, as you're so keen on your D*lly being original (which is why you spent £1400 on a galvanised Citroen Chassis) have you factored in the cost of having your D*lly resprayed afterwards? I can show you the bill for £3000 to have the rear of my D*lly sprayed in 2pack after it was shunted... and thats after you've had some fixing to adhere the paint to the galv.

But nonetheless, I'm interetsed to see the quote you get :)


October 21st, 2011, 1:24 pm
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Post Re: Strip n Dip
True
Painting wouldn't be feesable, it would cost too much,

I'd like it oven baked if it wad ever painted,

It probably won't happen :lol:

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1988 2cv 652cc
1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 3000cc runs on Bio Diesel
2004 Toyota Landcruiser Amazon 4200cc runs on Bio Diesel
1998 Daihatsu Hijet 1300cc
2005 Susuki Bandit 650cc


October 22nd, 2011, 9:00 am
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