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 reniflard 
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Firing on two.
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Joined: March 10th, 2010, 12:37 am
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Location: Alone in my polytunnel with my pitiful competition onions
Post Re: reniflard
Russell wrote:
Has anybody got a known buggered reniflard they'd be able to post to me? I'll pay postage etc. I'm tempted to assemble one of each, with a manometer and see which are most effective and do a proper instruction thread with decent photos and dimensions of the refurbishment process.

Or isn't it worth it?


Fairly sure I've got one in the shed. God knows why I kept it but PM me your address (again), etc. etc.

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May 4th, 2012, 3:57 pm
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Post Re: reniflard
TimCV
Do not neglect to plug the holes for the disks brakes cooling, if you dont use them.

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May 4th, 2012, 10:13 pm
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Joined: February 10th, 2009, 10:12 pm
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Post Re: reniflard
Back to the subject :) I guess I'm going to buy the Belgium version...
Give me (just) one reason not to do so...


May 4th, 2012, 10:59 pm
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Post Re: reniflard
erm :roll: Hmmmm :? nope cant think of any.

apart from just doing it youself costs nothing
Image
DSC00197 by Sean602, on Flickr

un pick the central seam and once its apart heat the now open flange till its dull red and let it cool slowly or it will split when you close it up again

in the picture the aluminium bits stop the rivet from pulling too tight on the rubber and making it buckle
you can see the state of the old rubber valve beside the new one

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May 4th, 2012, 11:13 pm
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Joined: February 10th, 2009, 10:12 pm
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Location: viseu - PT
Post Re: reniflard
Sean, I suppose you had to cut the original reniflard in two, but how the hell did you manage to put the two halves together? :?:


May 4th, 2012, 11:27 pm
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Post Re: reniflard
i dont cut anything it is a folded over seam like a can of beans - with a sharp screwdriver to get it started and a pair of jewelers pliers I open the seam. once its open and apart the edge of the seam has to be heated to dull red with a propane torch or the metal will simply split when you close it up again

the original has a thin rubber gasket in the joint ive tried o rings and such but found simply filling the joint with silcone then folding it all back over gently going round and round moving it just a tiny bit at a time the joint is good and oil tight

the important bit is heating the flange

it takes time,is fiddly and its easy to waste the breather the Belgian kit may be a good option - its just Im Scottish and so conditioned from a young age to be mean :)

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May 5th, 2012, 9:47 am
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Post Re: reniflard
I have followed what Sean suggests and it's possible.(Thanks Sean).
Don't forget the alu bits.
It gives an airtight reniflard but have not try it on the engine yet.
Simply blowing air by mouth feels like there is no resistance either side.

Maybe there is something to do with the rubber cylinder above the valve.


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May 5th, 2012, 10:12 am
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Post Re: reniflard
Taskos wrote:
Simply blowing air by mouth feels like there is no resistance either side.

.


they never do even a good one. as Harley calculated in another thread it will pump 9 000 litres of air every minute at 6krpm, thats what sort of volumes of air it needs to put up with. as a man you have about 4l expelled air when you really go for it trying to replicate the 2cv engine will result in a light head very quickly.



;)

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May 5th, 2012, 12:04 pm
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Post Re: reniflard
You're right.
Have to try it live.

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May 5th, 2012, 12:09 pm
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Post Re: reniflard
Try this approach ....it allows, you to assemble/dissassemble.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2912

I had 10 of these made, no interest, so I swapped for some-bits with the Belgium guys.


May 5th, 2012, 1:05 pm
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