I use this rust eater ...

http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... 26id%3D457

Contains phosphoric acid, which is the active component in jelonite / jenolite. I find Kurust is better but horrible if you get it on paintwork.

Right. Finally I remembered to take some pics of the door that I stripped with the plaited brush attachment. Here it is (note: I tweaked the contrast levels on the pic to emphasise the effect the brush has on the metal):

imho the brush is a bit brutal on the metal, and leaves marks. These may be masked by a good layer of primer, they may not (others will have a better knowledge of this).

By contrast, here is another door, which I stripped using a combination of paint stripper and the scouring pads that you can see in the pic (which I bought from Lidl): (note: contrast levels tweaked to same extent as previous pic, so you can see any blemishes).

My conclusion: paint stripper and scouring pad gives a MUCH better finish. However, don't forget to wear heavy-duty rubber gloves when you use it, or you'll end up in a&e.

How deep are the scratches, as surely the scratches will give it somethingto gip to. (keying it up)

On the metalwork I've used a knotted wire brush to clean, they're absolutely superficial.

I tend to use flat ones, rather than cupped ones - I find them more effective and easier to control.

Then there's the non-knotted wire brushes. They're not as effective, and last about two minutes.

I've used them to clean paint off old door furniture for the house, too - clean them up with a knotted brush in the drill, then just varnish - they look great. I did try one in a blast cabinet - and ruined it. Far, far too abrasive.

The scratches are superficial, but the finish is nowhere near as smooth as metalwork that I've done with the stripper and scourer. 2CV-bodywork guru Peter Cross (based near Droitwich) strongly advised me to go down the stripper route, because the sheet metal is so thin anyway that losing any more of it just makes the sheet more flimsy... and any unintentional deep gouges/scratches just make more work in terms of filling and sanding etc.

I'm currently stripping some rear wings with the stripper/scourer, and they are looking magnificent!

However, each to their own and all that... just my experiences, that's all.

I'd second that advice. I used a cupped twist knot on things like my axles, steering arms etc and it did the job in minutes - fantastic.

Buoyed up by this success I set too on my boot lid using the same brush - and scarred it for life. Honestly, the finish on my boot lid is a mess close up. I put plenty of primer and paint on afterwards, I even sanded them eggshell smooth in between coats, but once the paint had settled and shrunk the surface looked like an ice rink.

If you ever watch 'American Hotrod' on the freeview channels you will always see them take a shell to bare metal, then they begin the bodywork with an all over skim of filler, that works for 1940'-50's gauge steel, but won't on a flimsy- flexi 2cv panel. Better not to gouge it in the first place I think.

Smiffy,did you use any particular paint stripper?

I used Nitromors. Smelly and vicious!
...and to add a bit of grist in the mill, I just found this: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-stripping.htm
Looks like a nice little project he's got there!!

Back to rust converter. I will go to garage and look, the stuff ive got is amazing.