Hi,
Sorry to get involved late in the day but why not set the crank position as per your last photo with the peg on the flywheel at the hole and then set the points to just open as per normal 2cv. This is how I set up my 123 and adapter plate. Am I missing something............

Chris

yup that's how we did the racer when the nose fell off the cam during the Spa 24 24 24

set the crank to 32* held the nose and chopper on the cam, turned it till Kens neon flashed and migged it all up

the assembled audience couldnt believe it'd run and my french doesnt reach to " but its a bloody race when is it ever going to drop below 3000rpm to NEED retarding?"
starting it was fun its quite an up hill push that pit lane and there were a few fuel stops ;D

2cv with its centrifugal advance is a pain with the ignition being set the wrong way round

Yes I'm sure. The other marks were experimetal for testing only to reach same result. Been removed.

Getting to the conclusion that I will mark where the sensor is passing at 10 degrees ignoring the TDC mark. This way I know that the points will break at 10 degrees BTDC. However need to figure out how the sensor is working. Does it sense fully lined up, before (just coming in to ''contact'') or after? There would be several teeth before and after (when the tap is passing under the sensor) Need to hand over this engine tomorrow and need to be sure that the owner can set the points and timing without a badly running machine

Thanks everyone for your help.

After fiddling working out the sensor taps position, the job is coming to an end. Eventually found my mistake counting teeth from the TDC back to the tap being 7-8 teeth.
Fitting the clutch housing and looking at the tap passing through the sensor hole made me realize the mistake.
I now have 3,5 teeth between 10 degrees BTDC and TDC. Voila job done except small problem of advance weight reproduction plate is touching the engine block + need to fit grub screw to keep the oil in + make a drain hole should the oil pass the new cam dick.

Glad you (almost) made it...... Please let us now how the engine runs and revs.........

Do you still need to now where the pickup is when the signal of the sensor comes up?

Yes please I'm having a real drama with the timing despite following the instruction fitting the advance weights plates 20 mm of the vertical line + setting the gap at 0,40 on both cams took 3 used and 2 new reproduction cams before getting it right. If the adapter is not spot on, it turns around in a oval circle. This adapter is a good idea but still need further development when we talk points. The already know adapters for electronic ignition wouldn't have any issiues with lining it up. Here the weight turns the cam (under spring tension) I shouldn't have trusted the specifications I was given, the were for electronic ignition but I've learned trhe hard way. I may have to either pull the adapter out again if I can or change the timing to 11 or 12 degrees but not keen on it.

did some quick meuserments at my "testbench"( a little milling machine) When the edge of the pickup at the flywheel comes to the middle of the sensor it gives a reading... so turning the flywheel clockwise till the first edge of the pickup at the flywheel is at the middle of the upper hole thats the ignitionpoint...

Hope you understand..........

Lovely thanks, that gives me 2 more teeth to play with. I've set in the middle of the tap. That should move the points box a fraction

Does it run?????

Handed over the engine yesterday for test race (kart) The guy agreed to ring if any trouble during the race today. No phone calls today. Will ring monday and report back.