Those flanges look correct to me, but others with more experience may prove me wrong!

Ecas have clamps in abundance:

http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/advanced_ ... mp&x=0&y=0

you could check a motorcycle store they might have clamps?

Hi turbofiat124, I remember reading somewhere that 2cv's imported into the US where often registered as 70's models to avoid some smog regulations... perhaps a local specialist can confirm this.
Anyone have a link to Axel and Uschi's buisness?
I guess that will explain a lot of the later accessories.
Cheers

I posted this to a friend on the Trabant forums who owns a Dyane if it sound like I'm talking to one individual.

This is a follow up.

Well my 2CV suffered it's first "causality". I noticed the exhaust on this car had this "ticking" sound when I first test drove it but not really loud. I was coming home Thursday morning and noticed it was particularly loud. I got home and started looking around and noticed the clamp that secures the exit pipe on the muffler that connects to the rest of the exhaust system had fell off! Upon further investigation I noticed that the bracket on the driver's side had broke but luckily was still attached to the engine block. The bolt on the passenger side was already missing when I got the car.



So I pull the muffler off and start inspecting. This muffler seems to be rotten and needs to be replaced!

I welded the broken DS bracket back on but appears someone had welded the PS on and did not do a very good job at lining it back up.

So I go to three autopart stores looking for this clamp. I'd probably have better luck at a muffler shop or NAPA (which carries more parts) but by this time it's Saturday afternoon so they were all closed.

I've seen this type used before on Fiats but don't think it's used on American cars. I was going to replace the bolts on the other clamps but they are 7mm which seems to be an odd size. The autopart store only carried one length of 7.0 X 1.0 @ 20 mm long which fit the engine block.

There seems to be allot of 7 mm bolts (11 mm wrench size )on this car. Hopefully the local Fastenal carries this size but I have not had good luck with them in the past when it comes to metric bolts. If not, I may have to make my own out of 8 mm bolts using a die which is a more common size.

Irronic the United States refers to "Imperial" as "SAE or Standard"!!

I also noticed a couple of pinholes in the bottom of the muffler. Idiot me tried to weld one of them up but the metal was so thin, even on the lowest setting, I still burned a hole in it and made it bigger! I was going to use a Pepsi can as a patch and some wire but decided against it.

The inside of this muffler seems to be quite rotten. Otherwise the engine should not sound that loud with the rest of the exhaust pipe not connected and a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the muffler. Unless the resonator underneath the floor pan does most of the silencing.

I found a 2CV parts supplier here in the US (same place that sells that upgraded coil) and ordered a new muffler, exhaust clamp, oil filter, air cleaner element, that special brake fluid for disc brakes.

In the meantime, this is my temporary fix. You might be able to see from this photo what I did.

I took four hose clamps. I cut the worm gears off two of them and attached them to the exit pipe on the muffler then wrapped a clamp around it then bent the overlaps over the unmodified hose clamps. Mounted the muffler, then did the same on the exhaust pipe. This does not create the best seal but works to some extent. I don't like it but when push comes to shove!



Further investigating looks like someone used some of those "white crap" you mix with water then turns hard when it get's hot used to patch muffler holes (which never works) between the flared joints where the cylinder exhaust pipes (past the heater box) and muffler connect. I found a chunk of it inside the pipe. My guess is they thought the flared ends were leaking and someone tried to use this stuff as a sealant?

But I'm also hearing what seems to be an exhaust leak from the front of the engine. Perhaps it's coming from where the cylinder exhaust pipes go into the heater boxes (but not at the cylinder heads). Once again noticed some of this white stuff. But I won't worry about that until I install my new silencer just to make sure that's where the noise is coming from.

If so , what's the best way to seal these? My idea was to using a wire brush on a drill and clean off any rust down to where the metal is shiny. Maybe apply some high temperature anti seize compound on the flares as a sealant? I've got some "nuclear" grade that's good for 2600 F.

Is back pressure critical to these engines? If I have several exhaust leaks will this effect performance? Where as on a 2.0 liter engine you might not notice it with the same leaks.

Reason I ask is it seems after this episode the car doesn't seem to have as much power. But I've been driving my 150 HP Subaru for the past few days so that may explain it.

One thing I have noticed between the 2CV and the Trabant having about the same HP, is the Trabant seems to accelerate quicker on flat land but has a lower top speed. And struggles a bit at high speeds. The 2CV seems to accelerate slower but does quite well at high speeds. My Trabant fluctuates between 50 and 60 mph on the interstate depending upon the grade but the 2CV putters right along at 65 mph. Maybe it's the final drive gearing?

Both cars seem to have a top speed of 30 to 35 mph going up steep hills though.

Also learning that 1st gear has no synchronizer is reassuring! That would explain the slight grinding unless I come to a complete stop. I had no idea. So my gearbox seems to be OK.

I found some 89/90 EP gear oil however when I got it home I realized it was GL-5 and not GL-4. Is there any harm in using GL-5? I don't want to use the wrong gear oil and wreck my gearbox!

Yes! I talked to a guy who I think runs the American Citroen club and asked him about the VIN versus the inconsistencies with the car like the car having a 600cc engine and disc brakes. Yet a Charleston edition but not a correct paint scheme or cloth interior.

He said not to worry about it. As long as the VIN matches the title because most 2CVs imported into the US after 1968 are like this.

Personally, I'm not worried about it. My only concern is finding the correct spares.

I found that one but it doesn't seem to match the year of my car. Well mine has a 71 chassis but seems to be an 82 model.

This car does not have a rear window defogger.

As noted, the toggle switch must be for the rear fog lamp. But the bulb must be burned out because it doesn't light up. However when toggle switch is "up" the second top light "red" lights up.

So it's like this, first top light, "green" headlights on but goes out when I push the stalk either away from me or toward me (can't remember since the beams are wired incorrectly).

Second top light "red" : fog lamp

First bottom light "red" : emergency flashers

Second bottom light "green" : indicators

When emergency flashers are on, both bottom red and green lights flash simultaneously.

Still no signs of a blue main beam indicator on this car!



Left orange light (battery), right orange light (low brake fluid level).

Ok this is weird (can't post the link directly):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/30132857@N06/7223562748/

On my car the top fuse controls the driver's side (LHD) tail light and front pilot lamp, maybe the instrument cluster as well

The fuse below that control the passenger side (LHD) tail light and front pilot lamp.

Normally the park lamps are all on the same circuit. But my Fiat 124 Spider uses separate fuses for the tail and park lamps.

In this diagram it's not showing a fuse to be in the top holder!

Mine also has two fuse blocks. The one below the top one has four fuse holders but has only one fuse.

Err, for those cars with two fuseboxes, check the post I made on 1st September.
The fused feeds to the tail lights are separate on later cars.

Also, I'm fairly sure that the date given of "1989 onwards" is incorrect.