Well for my four peneth. I junk the points and the weights and fit lovely electronic ignition [mostly Mehari Club Cassis which are the cheapest on Eaby and I have never had a problem]

I too set these to 8 degrees using the peg.

I use nice smelling eau de toillette 95. no knocks no pinking [or pinging] no burnt out values or pistons and I drive them hard as they are meant to be driven.

P

As Sean has pointed out, setting the timing statically without also checking the total centrifugal advance available can cause problems, especially with 9.0:1 engines, for obvious reasons.

"Revue Technique" describes 2 methods of checking the centrifugal advance, one using the 'appareil simple' which is a pointer and scale, the other being a stroboscope.
Setting the timing at tickover (when the engine only needs to produce a minimal amount of horse power to keep it turning over), without checking where the firing point moves to at peak torque/full power is doing less than half a job, in my opinion.
Citroen seemed to have the same idea, since checking the total centrifugal advance available was treated as a precursor to the 'static' adjustment...

Fwiw, I've been setting the timing on A series engines stroboscopically since shortly after purchasing a Dyane new in 1980, but that simply followed on from years of working on motorcycles which _always_ had their timing checked at full advance.
Even with the leaded 98 octane fuel available back then and despite Bristol Street Motors' best efforts ( probably not worth a great deal ), the engine still pinked until I'd reduced the total centrifugal advance available by adjusting the stops.

Fitting 123, or its clone, without checking the maximum electronic advance will not always guarantee that the timing is correct at full advance, as I found with one unit which gave 10 degrees less total advance than it should have.
Albertronics did replace the unit, but the owner had been puzzled by the lack of performance until he brought the car to me to be checked over.

ken.

Is this what you tell the folk on your courses too?
Sean

I do Sean. The modern electronic ignitions made by 123 and copied by so many suppliers now have huge advantages over the points and weights on a 2CV.

If you set them up according to the manufacturers settings [usually 8 degrees with the basic ignition systems] you will have years of trouble free and much smoother running and save on fuel as well

Paul

um... ok, so basically I'm ok with 98 then

seems i started quite a mass-debate

Sam,
you certainly did.

Btw, you didn't mention which car you're taking and what your driving style is...

If it's got an 8.5:1 engine and you're not one of those drivers who habitually plants the pedal to the floor, 95 octane should be fine.

However, if there's any hint of pinking, switch to 98 octane.

If that doesn't silence 'les cliquetis', it's probably time to adjust (retard) the ignition timing, so to speak.

ken.

98 or 95, i think im considering selling mine and getting a bike now though

Also coupled with a harley coil it runs like a dream and starts on the first turn.

Forgot to mention the Harley Davidson coil, though I haven't fitted one myslef as I can't source one at the right price.

That could be the debt I owe you for the bench seats unless it's not enough