Yeah, I can make all that gubbins myself. Just thinking about the drawing Joolz posted, what does one do with the other brake pipe union? Just stick a bolt in it with a copper washer under it?

Just noticed Joolz drawing the pipes going to the cylinder are the wrong way round. If you pull the handbrake with that way the fluid would go forward.

,think there is more to it than that, inlet im guessing would have to go in where the master fitted which is just a push fit and cant take any pressure like when you apply the footbrake, might be easier to machine up a bit billet and fit a piston and rod using o ring seals

hows the gearbox going?

Are you going to try and use a standard 2cv master cylinder? You will need one with 2 ports as per demon tweeks site. You can buy just the cylinder and make all the rest.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLY-OFF-HYDRA ... 53ea8f99fb

as long as it has LHM seals not dot4, which just about every car uses

Well spotted my mistake Never had to worry about LHM on rally Minis and TR8's

yeah Russ just get a F'kin Mini

I want to do skids in me 2cv. The reservoir mount might not be able to take any pressure but could I not weld a nut on the top into which I thread the 'in' pipe, then block one of the original 'out' pipes and use the other to go out to the rear brakes?

Ignoring the gearbox, dad doesn't want the car back, I can't be arsed with it. Mines more critical at the moment, it needs quite a lot of work for the mot.

As long as with a standard master cylinder when it is not working the fluid can go though it with no problem then what you say will work.

In that case, just fit Ami Super rear brake cylinders.
That'll throw the front to rear balance right out of the window, increasing the rear braking effort by 40%.

Quick and dirty alternative.
Remove your front brake pads, immerse in LHM and refit.


Even quicker and dirtier.
Spray both sides of each brake disc with teflon based grease.



ken