Sam, As the bolt was greased an only recently fitted, what's left of it should theoretically be loose,( ). If you're lucky you may be able to unscrew it by tapping it round with a center punch.

oooo that could be useful... pm me?




Cheers Joolz I'll gove that a go to... I can't find my 'easy out set'

I don't know if the Moderator wants this thread to drift into the subject of just how good or bad the 2CVCity chassis is but I presume that provided people mention facts as opposed to hearsay or rumour, there's no harm in it.

When I rechassised my 2CV I took advice from all sorts of people then went to actually see the chassis before making my own mind up. From inspecting the chassis it looked well made and easily strong enough compared to the dreadfully rusted mess of the original chassis, like 1000% better. The car went on the road in March this year and so far she's done nearly 3000 miles. The lost shock absorber bolt has been the only slight problem so far and that was easily rectified by fitting a replacement and doing it up more tightly than before. Other than that the new chassis does everything it's supposed to do and so far I'm happy with it.

That's in no doubt. You could easily knock something up from a soggy cornflakes packet that would be 1000% better than a rotten original chassis.

I think we do have to be careful about what is said about a company's product(s), who's liable if said company decides to sue? I know there was a thread about ECAS a few months ago, but that appeared far more balanced than this one. I'll be staying well clear of making bad comments(not that I have any about 2cvCity, I only use ECAS) .

This is precisely where I didn't want this thread to go... can we please stick to helpful advice on how to remove a sheared bolt? And how to prevent it happening again. And replacing the chassis doesn't count

To be honest I think what I needed to know has been pretty well covered so thanks guys

I'll update this thread when I get round to doing the job... probably Monday

sam,
wonder if a recommended torque for the damper mounting bolts might be useful, as a 'suck it and see' method doesn't seem to guarantee success?

ken
( Btw, there have been other makes of aftermarket chassis which used a similar method of mounting dampers and those are known to suffer from the same problems, with bolts either loosening off or shearing.
That's what happens when folk cannot grasp the sound engineering principles behind Citroen's original design... )

Well said. I would take a broken shock absorber bolt over a collapsing chassis any day.

Why did some chassis manufacturers change the original stud mountings anyway? Are they vastly more difficult to manufacture than bolt fittings, or something? My chassis (which I think is an early Wheels non-galvanised thing; it's on the list of Things To Be Replaced) is the same, and apart from anything else, I need two different sized spanners to take my shockers off.

Since the studs screw into threaded bosses on the chassis anyway...