On my first 2cv some 15 years ago about the only thing I had any inkling how to do was re-set the points, I was constantly having to do it! Not difficult just a bit a faff taking the fan off an all..... BUT! on the way back from a rave one time in the late late late evening (well about 7 in the morning!) things just went kaplut in the middle of nowhere! The couple of space cadets I was with may as well have been passengers on a flying saucer and the recovery man looked at the car as though it was one!... but at least he could teleport them and tow me!

Well, there is a whole other story on that night (Don't ask! ) but when I investigated further it turned out the cam centrifugal weights were all mangled and twisted (How would that happen?) back then there wasn't web so couldn't ask for (a dozen) opinions (half kinda right!)

The way I understand it now, fitting a 123 would have gave me a running car as it doesn't use the cam weights, am I right? These days I know I would rather not fix and forget or not understand and ignore!

well my friend said they where earthing....

so im just saying what he said lol

they where arcing he said too....

... so thats kind of correct, when the points close they connect the coil to earth and the electricity flows thru the coil, then the points open the electricity stops, this causes the collapse of the magnetic field that causes the HT spark at the plugs.

if the points arc the electricity is flowing past the points to earth when it shouldnt and so the sparky process doesnt work well and you have a misfiring Injun

Sean

I have two 2CVs. One has had Luminition from when I bought the car in the UK in 1993. The other car was built from bits and pieces into a Raid car. It has 123 ignition. Both cars have the yellow Harley coil with the superb spark plug leads.

The 123 ignition is very easy to fit. remove the points box, weights and throw into the bin. Before installing 123, smear the back of the circuit board where it joins the metal body with silicone to seal it from water (this is explained in the instruction manual). This is only important if you intend fording rivers. Using a 5mm drill bit locate the timing hole on the flywheel. Set the 123 using the inbuilt LED (again adequately explained in the instructions). That should be all that is ever required.

I have the EVO version of the 123, which has a vacuum advance feature plus about 14 different dwell settings. I just use the standard M28 curve (25 degrees/3000rpm). If one is after more performance, one can try some different curves. For the vacuum advance to work, either the carby needs to have a blanked off port drilled and tapped OR the bakelite spacer below the carby needs to be drilled and tapped, so that the vacuum nipple can be screwed in and connected by a tube to the 123 ignition. The 123 still works OK without the vacuum tube connected. Also, a hole needs to be drilled into the fan housing, grommet added and the vacuum tube thread through and kept out of the fans way.

I threw away the old points. Started the car and drove for about 26,000 kms covering much of Australia. I also partook in Raid Oz 2008. I have had no problems with either car as far as the ignition systems go. I have never liked fiddling with points and don't believe in removing the fan unneccessarily. This can lead to a weakening of the fan hub. If that breaks, there is a good chance the oil cooler tubes can be severed. No much fun when the nearest town is 600kms away.

As far as performance or fuel consumption goes, I have no idea. I drive for enjoyment, I don't count the cost. I work on 300kms range from a tank of fuel (25l tank). It makes little difference if I am on a Raid driving all day in 2nd gear or on the highway driving all day with the pedal to the floor. Just recently I drove from Sydney to Canberra (about 300km). There was an illumintaed sign on the road side "Cost $197, 11-20km above limit". This was the weekly "special" for exceeding the speed limit (of 110kph) by 11-20kph. Naturally, to get my money's worth, I was aiming for the top of the range. Unfortunately the speedo only goes to 120kph and the needle was past that, on the pin. Different story going uphills of course. I also always double clutch which doesn't aid the fuel economy, but petrol is relatively cheap (compared to speeding fines).

I like electronic ignition and Harley coils and reliability.

John

just thought id dust of this topic for one reason

im going to replace my ht's as there not flexible any more, someone told me cant remeber who but said when there not flexy then replace em
anyway ecas sell many,
is there a particular favoured one, if you like?

Spend a bit extra, and replace your coil as well.....

http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/ignition- ... -1159.html

I'm really surprised how popular that yellow coil is. I have not seen any here in France and nobody is asking about it. Here they just buy a new black coil and off they go.

It suprises me, espescially when those 'fuelsaver' things that do nothing are advertised by every specialist!

Perhaps in UK we're living on such an overcrowded island that we're always sitting in traffic here, unlike france? less overheating coils? less need for a solution?

Not sure Russ. Down under is the same story, very few yellow coils around, only Daffy Duck is running yellow. The heat in Oz is not a problem for coils or engines etc.

Bougicords. Buy two pairs initially so that you always have a spare pair to hand, I wouldn't trust anything else. Having said that, your engine purred like a kitten yesterday so unless you're actually having problems then save your money for now.

Many of the dry resin "Harley-type" coils come with non-replaceable copper cored spark leads which will be much less flexible. Copper is fine but may cause radio interference unless suppressors are fitted, if you have resistor spark plugs (the usual model number will have an "R" at the end) they do the same job.