If you are unsertain on how to do the dynamic setting of the ignition, you can just try and do the static setting. It's easy and straight foreward. I find that in most cases, static setting is accurate enough, if cams and weights are in good condition. Sometimes I have checked the static adjusting with a strobe light, and usually there is no need for dynamic readjusting.

In any case, with static setting the car should drive ok. If it still doesnt, I dont think it's the ignition-setting that is the problem.

ooooo forgot to post back on here my bad

i got her sorted.... eventually... believe it or not 3 weeks of fiddling with the timing and i got it sorted yesterday.... i would say shes sorted to a degree... all rev's feel good and she will pull upto 75 again... although there may be a minor missfire/hesitation... im happy with the way shes running... now thinking of a new exhaust set up

Right guys/girls.... any help is still greatly appreciated to show me the ways...

she is acting up again... and im still in the fix or replace altogether mood... have been keeping an eye on a few engines lately seeing what they are averaging on the ol' fleabay... just incase

basically... i've driven her twice tonight... same road... same conditions... first without grille muff... second with... and i recon with was probably worse... although when i got home i had a check and she didnt seem any hotter than normal, basically down the dualcarriageway tonight... she barely went above 60 flat out... which was quite odd because on the way she was holding around 75 flat out... so im thinking no to the grille muff... but she still doesnt have the performance she used to... she needs a service bar the plugs as they are new... new ht leads are a must as i have no idea how old these originals are but when i used the D*lly ones i didnt notice much of a difference.. but i believe the problem may be coil related as when i tried my original coil last week i noticed quite an improvement round the country roads... but i cant really test it anything over 10 miles down the dually because it overheated... it would keep running fine but once the engine was stopped she wouldnt start again... hence why i swapped to the D*lly coil which never had any problems..

but basically my problem being tonight - lack of response to acceleration... say driving along at 40-4th gear etc, holding the revs.... i'd accelerate abit more... and she'd basically hesitate alot and then to accelerate, i'd have to floor it... i cant work out whether its ignition sourced or fuel sourced... but i was driving around with my grille muff on earlier in the year and NEVER noticed any problems like this...

another thing... when i got home... i turned the engine over by hand... and you could hear the carb jets "gurgling" almost like the pump isnt pumping enough? but i've only got 1 other pump to try which is off the D*lly engine... if not would it be wise to scour the fuel pipes in search for a leak? obviously i know its not being "pumped" up the fuel pipes which would cause it to leak... but its being sucked up... and if there was a split in the pipe... it would draw in air...

just getting a tad fed up with her not running properly and now its getting cold and im abit of a wuss who doesnt like working when your fingers are going to drop off i'd rather get her sorted and be able to leave her over winter knowing shes not just gna conk out on me...

i dont know what else to say, unless more info on how she's driving is needed to diagnose the problem :/ im still torn between coil or fuel... i dont know whether to just put the old coil on and try it... if the symptoms are still there, i know it could be something else...

sigh

I know this isn't gonna help much Joe but, if you'd have got your arse into gear yesterday and come up to Birmingham as suggested-it might've been sorted now!

i didnt come up yesterday because i thought i had it sorted... but obviously it's something that one day doesnt seem bad... and then the next it does :S atm the only thing running through my mind is whether i should strap my spare coil round the current one and use that to get me upto the unit and see if theres any difference!

... yes its 3am and im still up dannii is asleep on the sofa and i can't sleep....

New coil will be arriving today... not sure when gsf will be delivering... but i will need to test it etc.. i get the feeling it will make starting better... running a little better... but the strong hesitation will still be there... so im thinking it could definately be fuel... i have 1 spare fuel pump... and 2 spare carbs... when i say spare... i have the manifold/carb from her original engine.. and the carb from the D*lly engine... but i will have to try... get the feeling i will have a gasket under there to worry about too.... as i dont have a spare... this could be fun in line fuel filter to buy aswell tomorrow! a nice expensive day eh! the reason i believe it to be carb... is all her problems began 2 days after a nice good thrash back down the motorway... so maybe something got dragged along the fuel pipes and wedged in a carb jet... not overly sure... but i will find out later on! after a short sleep... a drive into town... upto the unit.. or stay home depending on what time the coil arrives... and the man from virgin yes i've been ordered to stay home between 12pm-4pm to wait for the man to come look at our virgin box thingy and do sod all like they normally do

will keep you all posted though... maybe see you sunday spanners

Coil wont do anything for cold starting but will help the hot start that you mentioned earlier on.

is it 123 or points? a new set of points and and especially a new condenser will help starting.

once you know the ignition is fine then you can look for induction leaks.

How good is the fuel pipe? before spending on new pump check all the rubber sections for signs of splitting and general degredation. The fabric braded stuff that was popular in the 90s is really prone to cracking up unseen under the fabric.
Then the co2/mix may need looking at.

just waiding in and replacing and fiddling just gets messy and usually expensive.

Sean

thanks sean she doesnt have any problems cold starting... well not since then.. and the old coil was fine when hot/warm but i swapped over to see if that was the cause of the hesitation etc, it doesnt seem as bad on this coil, but this coil doesnt like warm starts... hot is fine.. but when left for 10 mins... then it gets abit troublesome... gsf delivered what they thought was a 2cv coilt today.. its like one of them single sparkplug coil pack on a stick thingys... foooools! so that needs sending back and replacing for a proper coil :/ the fuel lines are something i need to check before swapping bits over... but like today... she took a while to get there but she did 75 up the m1 today... one minute she feels crap... the next shes alright... which is leading me to believe it could be a carb/fuel related problem... the mixtures were set a long time before any of the problems started and she ran fine then and she had new points/condensor about 3 weeks ago

I had a lot of problems with one of my 2CVs. It would start but didn't seem to have power. One day it was so bad, I just turned around and went home, virtually no accelerator response.

Put that carby on another 2CV and I had exactly the same problem. Knew it was the carby. First car had Luminition ignition, second car had 123/EVO. The second car has a new engine (26K) and by perservering, it finally came good. The added suction of a newer engine finally sucking it clean. Must have been a blocked jet on the secondary throat, hence started OK but no acceleration or top speed.

Have bought a new fuel filter, as the old one was probably falling to bits, with bits of paper blocking the jets.

Daffy Duck

Hey Joe
Had loads of problems with poor response when we first got Steves D*lly - I tried everything you did - coil, plugs, leads, ignition, timing etc., but time again it came back to poor fuel feed. As these cars get older, the fuel lines seem to break down so I would invest in an inline fuel filter - v.cheap - and also a new piece of line from front of chassis to pump and pump to carb putting the filter somewhere in there. If you have crud in the tank this should stay there as the sender has a filter on it so no need to drop tank out to look. I would check the filter behind the large nut on the front of a 26/35pics carb as these seem to break over time. I would also buy a carb gasket/rebuild kit and change the needle valve and clean out the float chambers as they usually are full of crap and clean all the jets with air. Some of the jets in the rebuild kit are suitable for changing in a 26/35 but dont assume larger jet = more performance! Make sure that carb top is well screwed down with new gasket as air leaks wont help...SSD