and your probably a metric baby so youll have to measure length of bar in m and multiply your weight in Kg to get KgF/M

Torque /your weight(kg )= length from centre of hub on which you need to stand on the bar.

I failed

I can't get the bearing regaining nut undone

I tried with the windy gun, as ecas say to use the tool with, tried with big breaker bar, tried heat, 0 movement

If its anything like the original hubnut im doomed.. Sam and i spent 3 hrs undoung thr nut a few years ago

Is it easier to take the arm off and clamp the hub in a vice and get a scaffold pole..? Or just try as it is with a scaffold pole..? Breaker bar is 750mm long

Get down McDonald's

I had 1.5 meters of scaffold tube on my breaker bar and was literally stood bouncing on it (you know how much of a fat bastard I am) You need more weight and extra leverage!

James,
which type of tool are you using?
If it's the same as the one I've got ( see pic earlier in this topic ), giving the socket which is fitted to the tool a good thump _inwards_ with a lump hammer has often been enough to shock the grip of the retaining ring.
'Unscrewing' pressure needs to be maintained as this is done, so I've usually hung something heavy off the end of a 6' long tube slipped over the breaker bar, a spare 602 engine being the usual choice.
Once I had to answer the phone just after hanging an engine on the end of the bar, wandered off whilst talking on the phone and when I came back to start work again, the engine was on the ground.
I reckon it either got bored waiting or maybe decided it wasn't worth putting up a fight...

p.s. Best not to overdo the length of scaffold tube or the weight applied, since shearing the drive tags off the tool isn't a good move. The pair I used to work with destroyed 2 of the tools made by Graham Seed that way, he replaced the first one f.o.c., but not the second.

heat, a soak in diesel and shock as above

The only way I could undo mine after 36 years was 3/4 drive - 1/2 inch will bend and a long acro tube - 2 metres long. Constant pull and off it came with no dramas

Ken

I have the burton tool that doubles up as a 44mm socket, it does not give the most comfortable grip on it

I tried heat, but ill try heat, long bar and shock

I was hoping the shock from the windy gun would do it

James
The Burton tool is not a professional tool and should only be used to screw the ring nut ON. Trying to unscrew and it will slip off (lack off grip) The risk of expanding the ring nut (two slots) will damage the thread and biting, if unscrewing becomes possible. You need to bore the ring nut 2 places (where the slots are) using 5 mm drill bits. Be very aware of preserving the thread, however the drill bit touching the thread have little impact on the thread. When done split the ring nut (where you bored) using a sharp cold chisel, then CAREFULLY chisel the ring nut inward toward the middle (where the drive shaft normally is located) Eventually, the ring nut will bend enough so you can remove it, one half at the time. Again the most important issue is the thread. If you bugger the thread, the new ring won't turn on freely and the hub needs replacement. Use the Burton tool to screw on the new ring.
Good luck.

Viking. Ive been failing. Drilling was next option. Which i will do

Drilled one side perfectly otherside touched thread ever so slightly so stopped i used a centre punch first...

Going to buy a cold chisel tomorow and will see if i can pop it with just one side drilled....