As Chris said, it will run out of the box, if you want the last horsepower out of it you can tweak it...... otherwise leaf it like it is (as long as the engine doesn''t pink)....

More economy

Anyone know the correct procedure for setting timing with lumenition? Mine is running very lean and running on.

Interestingly, my D*lly (on Lumy) does that abroad, have you been using E10?

Never

Actually it's a bit of a long story, but we had to take the head off one side on Sunday after snapping a manifold stud. Manifold was coming off to file the flat surfaces completely flat to cure blowing. Basically it looked to have been running very lean at least on that side, tappets were very tight though so reset them when torqueing the head. Didn't have chance to do the other side - it was 9pm by then! Will reset tappets on other side next weekend, but my friend who was doing all this thinks the timing is out to cause it to run lean, and hot and then run on.

I was under the impression though that the lumenition system was a fit and forget - once set up it didn't need doing again. Is this right or does the timing slip over the years?

A lean mixture can only be corrected by changes to the carburation; altering jets and/or curing air leaks in the induction system.
The type of ignition system in use can have no possible effect on carburation...

However, incorrect ignition timing can and will cause overheating, which is why a strobe should always be used to check the timing at full advance.

'Running on' can happen in an engine which is running too hot as a result of a lean mixture, incorrect timing or being in need of a decoke.
Spark plugs with too hot a heat range, or not correctly torqued, can also cause 'running on'.

I think I've combined two possible errors Ken (a bit woolly headed with a cold and sudofed) - getting hot and running on, and running lean. Tappets are now tappy and then want to check/adjust the timing with lumenition before playing with the carb.

Plugs are NGK and pistons and barrels look ok with no sign of carboning up.

Cylinder head and valves did look very white when removed which has prompted the lean idea? But running on would seem to indicate a problem with timing.

There were no signs of a leak on the inlet side of the manifold, just the exhaust.

Richard

That's not the whole story Ken.....

It is what you want, if you want to drive for economics you can drive at the lean side of
'Stoichiometric' for petrol it means above 14.7 (air to fuel ratio) you can drive up to 1/17 with your 2cv and cruising nicely around. So all you need to do is back off the ignition far more under fuell throttle.

Only for full power you want to go slightly under Stoichiometric to get full cooling from the fuel and full power.......

So the choise is up to you, do you want full power of fueleconomics...


That's why fuel-injection is such a nice thing (in combination with a lambdaprobe) you can do both..... cruising along you can drive 1/17 (together with a programmable ignition which
advances the ignition also) you can drive 30% more fueleconomic then with a standard 2cv
and when you really nail it (pedal to the metal) lambda will go to 12.5 and retard the ignition so you have full power...

Ken there is more then jets and points nowadays........ it is just what you want......


[quote="ken"]A lean mixture can only be corrected by changes to the carburation; altering jets and/or curing air leaks in the induction system.
The type of ignition system in use can have no possible effect on carburation...

However, incorrect ignition timing can and will cause overheating, which is why a strobe should always be used to check the timing at full advance.

'Running on' can happen in an engine which is running too hot as a result of a lean mixture, quote]

lpgo,
I think you'd agree that in the case of Richard's car, which is fitted with Lumenition and a carburettor, with no intention to upgrade to programmable ignition and fuel injection, the points I made should cover most eventualities.

As for the cars I work on, optimising the mixture by rejetting to suit unleaded fuel and setting the ignition timing accurately usually means that they are capable of achieving close to 50 mpg if driven with a light foot and the legal maximum speed if driven hard, so I don't see much need to add more when less will do almost the same job.

For the record, I was putting together fully electronic ignition systems for A series engines back in the late 1980s.
They used the control boxes from Talbot Solaras as the amplifier, with triggering accomplished using the original Hall effect sensors or infra-red emitter/detector pairs designed for cash registers.
Still got a few in use, handy things when used with A series coils as they switched off the current after a few seconds if no triggering signal was being received...

ken

If I understand it right, Luminition still uses the mechanical advancing mechanism of the 2cv...

So mechanical = wear so yes timing can slip.....

Same story with 123, it uses the camshaft for timing which still wears and it is never the same for both cilinders....... there will always be difference in timing between 2 cilinders how hard you will try.

If you want no wear at all, you must take the flywheel as source and that is exactly what I do..
without mechanical things or light things or anything......
I need no current for making a spark, I make my own current by the variable reluctance sensor.....


Take a look at these 2 videos made by a 1-2-Spark user...
Now thats the diffrence between driving at camshaft or crankshaft..... especially at iddle

123 ignition


1-2-spark ignition