If its an arm with the smaller blocks, from a friction damper car then they're not really up to the job of damper mounts, especially with harder dampers.

Acad with Boge dampers

Thanks for the offer, sean. if need be, you might get a call from me. I think if i can get away with NOT replacing the mount blocks, i'll have to go a fair whack bigger than m10. The old bolts were so solid i had to drill them out in their entirety, killing the already-enlarged tap on the holes, one of which also seems off-centre to my eye.. Just worried if i tap again its going to have weakened the mounts by thinning the edges?

I might have sourced a decent whole replacement axle/suspension/steering assembly, which would be preferrential as my steering rack is worn, my kingpins need done and my wheel bearings are shot too. If i can get that and do a straight swap, I'll worry about refurbing the current one in the future.

as u say sean just drill a hole in the eye and tap a tread
i cant be bothered to explain at the mo

I get what he means about tapping it again, but with it already having been drilled and tapped in the past, i'm just cautious that doing it AGAIN will remove yet more metal from the 'tab' and bring it closer to a point it could fail from stress of hitting a pothole etc.

Does that make sense?

hmm 5l of petrol in a can, a box of matches and a quiet layby time?

if its M10 badly at the moment then going up to M12 isnt really feasible as the M10 is pretty much at the limit.
full front set here if you need it but its a D*lly of unknown provenance - if your changing your KPs you can swap over the swivel housing as well

Wash your damn mouth out with soapy water, ya wee shite! I may have thought about it a few hundred times, but i'd never actually DO that to my poor van...

So in terms of repairing the current arm, are we back to replacing the tabs with new steel?

could do - ive only got 130A welder should be OK