My plan before I got Aminated was to put super bright LEDs in the rear indicators (the current lights have horrid festoon bulb holders & the bulbs are only about 4watt hence the invisibility). Usual prob with LEDs is that they pull too little current to make the flasher flash but on Galloping Gerty, currently unless u've changed it, there are 3 incandescent bulbs on each side so replacing just the rears with LEDs should not only be OK it might slow the flash rate a bit (2 bulbs & a LED pulling less power) as it's rather fast when the dynamo is actually doing anything... Front indicators seem visable enough & the 'proper' C post ones are really only decoration anyway these days!
As for hopping up the voltage, there are 6-12volt step up regulators, I bought one but in my iggerence it was for an earthed field uk type dynamo not a french type series field one so didn't work... The french type are available but twice the price. You don't get owt fer nowt so if u pull 12 volt from a 6 volt dynamo you only get 1/2 the amps you get @ 6 volt. 12 volts is also higher up the dynamos rev range so charging kicks in higher up the engines rev range. All adds up to a lot les 'lecky per mile going into the battery and maybe not enuff amps to run main beam, stereo, cruise lights AND the indicators....
Apparently Russ the M4 engine out of the Ami was passed to the guy in Bristol by John Rowe with the car do you think he's still got it...?

This guy has some interesting looking 6V LED indicator and brake lights.
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm

I think you also need a flasher unit designed to work with LEDs too - otherwise they flash too rapidly.
I was pondering fitting some to my 6v MZ motorbike - but have instead decided to solve all the electrical problems by selling the bike to Mr Concannon instead

Did you test these relay's. The AZ (AZAM) only have one indicator bulb mounted on the side of the body. They may only work with 2 bulbs?

Looking at the photographs of Russell's car, it's got indicator lamps at both front and rear, so those relays should be OK.

Hi Russell.

Any ideas what your current wiring diagram is like for the indicators? Eg: what type of flasher unit you have - how many pins, how it's wired, etc?

As you suggest, electronic flasher and LEDs are undoubtedly the way to go. I'd be inclined to go 100% electronic and not bother trying to mix standard bulbs with LEDs - the bits don't cost much and should be much brighter. However, a bit of investigation will likely be needed as most LED bulb adverts are happy to state how many actual LEDs they have in them - 24 being quite typical ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-LED-amber- ... 231aca7e95 ) but they don't say how 'bright' they are!

I'd have thought that the electronic flasher that Little Louis linked to would be ideal: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... ategory/35 and I see both 2 and 3-pin versions on eBay (Eg: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0465764281 tho' check it's FULLY electronic..). The non-electronic types (electro-mechanical) rely, as you know, on the hefty drain from the standard bulbs for them to flash at the correct rate. So mixing LED and 'normal' bulbs will be a gamble. And just replacing all your bulbs with LED type whilst keeping a 'standard' flasher would be a complete waste as you'd have to fit shunt resistors for them to flash at the correct rate - so your LEDs would effectively be drawing the same power as normal bulbs.

So, fully electronic all the way

I'd also consider fitting LED rear side lights too (and possibly front, although white LEDs can look a bit 'Xenon' and not really in keeping...), again provided you can get confirmation they are brighter than the feeble things we have as standard; on a 6V system, any power saving you can make will no doubt be welcomed by your system.