Quick update! Switch apart half a dozen times, all lighting bullet connectors recrimped, much faffing about. Much scratching of head. Much swearing. In the end it was something as easy as clicking the five pin relay back onto the connector block. Huzzah!

Ouvrier,
the same result could have been achieved by fitting a jumper lead to the 5 pin block...

Are you planning on keeping the dim-dip hooked up?

ken

Well it's funny you should say Ken, but I reckon the dim dip was disabled when the chassis was changed earlier in the Summer. Although the relays / connectors looked intact and the diode under the steering column is still there, the canister on the front of the chassis member has disappeared and the dim dip doesn't function as a dim dip should! I was all set to follow your earlier advice, but having been unable to find the canister I needed to look elsewhere for the solution. Thankfully eventually I did, or else I'd have been unable to venture out after dark!

There not relays to remove the load off the switch?

Hi Ouvrier,
there's a difference between a dim-dip setup which isn't working because the resistor or diode are missing and one which has been disabled by bridging between the relevant contacts in a connector block.

The former still overloads your light switch by sending 126 watts through a single contact in the light switch, whereas the latter reduces the maximum load on any contact to 100 watts.
If the relays are still plugged in, the dim-dip has not been disabled.

http://www.2cvstuff.com/Files/DIM-DIP.pdf

You can get some idea of how your light switch is faring by putting your hand near it on a long night drive with dim-dip not disabled...


ken.

In answer to James' question, no.
It is possible to add relays to switch the headlight circuits, but that's a different matter altogether.

Thanks Ken... I know what you mean. The lights switch does pump out some heat! I'll getting bridging in the morning...

thought it would be worth a mention

I fitted 2 relays to remove the load