Errrr yeah, but he didn't tell me! I found it rattling around in the footwell on the way home! I put it back on, but I'll give them a smear of waxoil and reapply.

Is it worth scraping off the old underseal from the other wing and under the rear wheels where the spray will go up into? So many questions...

Entirely up to you! If i'd kept the van i would have certainly have done the other wing to match. I would also have done the rear inner arches too. Did he also give you the new mud flap for the wing i had painted? If he did & you haven't put it on yet, then i think it would be a good idea to. Will help prevent stone chips along the bottom of the cab to van box area.

I spent a day using the Bilt Hamber stuff that Neil recommended, Dynax S50, and can highly recommend it myself. The can comes with two nozzles, one with an extension tube. Its great for getting into all the small spaces and is easier to get going than waxoyl. I used both, but keep the Dynax stuff to hand whenever I feel like topping it up quickly. Its great for applying to seams and exterior bits such as window rubbers and around the wiper seals. Just let it dry a bit and wipe off the excess with a rag. I can't recommend it enough. This, coupled with waxoyl for the large cavities, seems to be pretty effective.

humm yes may look at that, am using hissy can Dinitrol cavity wax and the underbody stuff but could do with something else.

aw dissapointed
saw the title and thought it was another "stop Cowel getting No1 this christmas with Xfactor" type of campaign

remove the mats, drill drain holes in the floor and on sunny warm days open the windows for a bit, dont have the car full of stuff as you need air in and circulating as it will get wet from condensation.

dont be tempted to start it to see if it still works, as all youll do is fill the exhaust with water and drain the battery

chock the wheels and leave the handbrake off

Sean

justint, this is a concern i share with you....

see my post on what ive been up to to prevent the shell rusting to much....

i painted the hole of the inside of the shell with red oxide primer, including the floors, and im going to inject the car with waxs oil, and take both front and rear wings off, to srape old shit and wax oil off, and re apply wax oil... i think its one of those things, either way the rust is going to happen, its a matter of delaying it to next winter or the one after....

oh yer im also going to red oxide the inside of the rear wings,


i bought one of those dremel things (well a copy versionan) and its perfect for grinding out rust, so you can apply some sort of anti rust paint (i used red oxide primer) i did this at the bottom of my light panel, as water seems to sit there when the car has been rained on...

i would also if i were you, after each rainy day check font and back floors and also in boot for water, dry out, and next time you drive the car open the windows, and / or vent flap to let the air circulate. also after each period of rain, open both windows and wipe away the sitting water that sits on the doors (by the window catches) if you get where i mean...

im new ish to 2cving, but thats what ive been doing so far and going to do, and so far the car hasnt rusted much at all, pretty please.. as when i found out my car was from portugal, i had bad visions! not to bad if i may say so

also if you notice any rust forming, attack it quick as you can... i konw once the rust bugs there its there, but if you can grind it out do so, and delay it a bit more!

i hope what ive written is to some help, im sure someone will come along and sayu im wrong, seems to be the case but yer thats my opinion.

also if you notice any chips in paintwork, sort them out. a favourite in my car is where i take my seatbelt off and it wips on the door, and chips the paint...

this is what i have, cant rate it highly enough, good for removing water from body panels in a flash