are you looking for front or rear wings? I have some fronts here, I can't remember if any are great though.

Are these holes that have been drilled or have they rusted?

^^^ important distinction...

If they're holes that have rusted, by the time you clean it back to bright shiny metal on both sides (if it's on bits you can get to both sides of), you'll have bigger holes, and a lot of very thin bits of metal.

Any kind of filling other than just a thin skim to finish the shape off really is only delaying the inevitable.

Hi Willami. Blimey, you're a brave fellow...

But practical.

I'm in a similar position - solid car, new chassis, floor, wings, etc. but suffering from the odd small hole here and there - nowhere 'structural'.

So, I'm also going to do as you propose - patch with filler.

First, you do need to remove all the loose rust (stating the obvious here...). Then you prime the remaining using, ideally, a rust-converter. This should stop the rust in it's tracks (although more protection will be needed after the actual patching job is complete.)

Then, depending on hole size, you either apply a 'plate' of filler on an expanded aluminium mesh on to the back of the job, or - if, like mine, the holes are tiny, around 5-10mm dia - simply apply a spread of fibreglass filler on to the back of the hole. Spread this firmly against the panel so's it bonds really well, and go well beyond the repair. Use a plastic spreader and 'feather' the edges so's they blend in to the metal - this way there won't be an 'edge' where moisture can get a hold.

On the 'good' side of the panel the fibreglass will have squeezed through - just wait for it to go partially off and trim it with a craft knife. Sand it flush if necessary and apply a skim of normal body filler to level out the surface.

This surface will require careful finishing to get it perfect for painting - you'll likely end up using 1200 grit for the final finish.

On the 'back' side of the panel, apply a thick coat of rust-protecting paint and finally a good 'waxoyling' - you MUST stop moisture getting to the repair; if moisture manages to get to your filler it will get drawn in by capillary action and will 'blow' the repair.

There is no reason why (a) this shouldn't look perfect and (b) last many years.

(Ok, we are taking 2CVs, so perhaps there are some panels that'll suffer from more vibes than most cars - perhaps this will undermine the job after a while...)

And this is the reason, guys, that buying used cars is a challenge

Absolutely, Eirik.

It's also why you should ask detailed questions of the seller - the law says the answers must be honest (yes, you get it in writing!). Anything that turns out not to be true, you can sue against.

When the day finally comes for me to sell Bugsy, I'll be completely upfront. I plan to do a really good job of her, and will rust-protect the car to within an inch of its life. I won't lose track, tho', of the simple fact it's currently a £1k car with a couple of tiny holes in the panel behind the rear window, along the front door bottoms and a few equally small bits at the back. Yes, I could (should?) fit 'new' doors, but I fully intend to fix the current ones so's they will be strong and will last.

Oops, clicked 'post' instead of 'preview'...

As for the holes behind the rear window (I'm talking 5mm dia max) - nothing on this planet would possess me to cut out and reweld that with new metal; it just isn't 'justified' for this car, imo. It's an old, cheap car, but one that's is structurally very solid, has great mechanicals - and is hopefully going to be made to look very good. It'll always be a 'cheap' car, but one that I intend should last many, many years.

What's more, if I had to go to the expense of restoring the car 'properly', then I simply wouldn't have it in the first place - I could not justify it financially.

the filler with glassfibre is great for the stuff you talk about, finish off on the outside with a bit of "filler"

I personally find that a weldded patch quicker than waiting for ail the filler to go off, but then ive got the welder handy and dont care that my wings look like frankensteins Monster having a bad day

Sean

I believe you! After all, you are the Devils Advocate.....

And, to avoid any bad feelings, all just say that I dont think negative about people finding "easy" solutions to problems. Hell, I've done it myself on the front windowsurround on one of my cars. But then again, I have no plans of selling it. So it conserns nobody but me.

My comment was a "kick" to those who patch up a wreck, make it look good, and then sell it. Looking "good as new"(and pricing it thereafter), but being still a wreck underneath...

Nice one, Eirik!

No bad feelings whatsoever, of course - your comments are completely valid.

Yes, people need to take care with any car purchase, but with old classics the questions - as well as the investigation - should go much deeper.

I knew the grey Charlie I bought was a generally structurally solid and mechanically good vehicle, but one that needed a fair bit of tidying - 'cos that's what the guy advertised it as, and what I confirmed it was with emails prior to purchase. It's also what I expected for just over £1k

If I were to buy a 2CV for, say, more than £2k, then I would ask lots more questions just to make sure I knew what I was getting for my money.

While it's true that you have considerably more automatic protection when buying from a dealer, you still have a surprising amount of 'cover' if buying privately. The main principle involved is that the car 'must be as described'. So, that's where you ask important questions - and get your answers ideally in writing.

If it turns out to be significantly not as described, then you can sue the seller, quickly and easily.

Hi All

Thanks Adrian, Eirik. Devil's - thanks for taking time to set out how you do remedials like this. When you say 'normal body filler' can you recommend a product? cheers. Russ - hi, these are rust holes...good old fashioned rust holes

What I plan to do is get this car fully restored in the next 5 or so years; however, right now in my life I don't have the money, space or time - therefore I am wanting to halt further deteriation of valuble panels. This is an Ami - panels are not as easily purchased like a 2CV. At the same time I'm not going to store this car until I do have the above time/space/money - I want to drive the thing!!! I don't believe everyone cuts out every single tiny speck of rust everytime they appear and if they do then that's not a realm i'm interested in - like Devil's said - my car never going to be worth doing that to....

This whole thing is a stop gap - until a fully bare metal / body off / £££££'s job is carried out...

Thanks again for the advice...oh yes, i should add, on the topic Eirik brought up - i fully intend to have this car for the rest of my days...i'm 34 and in good health!!
Will