This isnt new, but I dont know how to access the thread, so I'll have to start from the wiring diagram that was shown some time ago.
The diagram is quite clear. However it would appear that considerable modification to the light switch would be required.
The problem that I see is that the wire coming from the switch to number 86 on the relay is 12 VDC while the power for the relay should go to the post marked 30 on the relay.
If you remove the 12 volts to the switch, you will mess up the horn and the parking lights and it will be necessary to run a separate wire from the High/low contacts to the relays.
Is there any other way to install the relays

I can't see any problem with this, and I can't see any reason to have to modify the switch. I don't know which way around the connections are on a relay from the top of my head, but I'll assume that they're correct in the diagram.

Why would you remove the 12v to the switch? You just need to intercept the wires from the switch to the lamps, somewhere on the bulkhead is probably easiest, and divert them to the relay instead.

Hi socarco.

As Joolz says.

The relay connections you show in your diagram are correct, I believe. However, one change I would make is to fit the fuses 'before' the relay - ie: on the feed to terminal 30 - rather than on the wire from the output (terminal 87) to the lamps. That way, more of the circuit is protected, including the relay itself.

You shouldn't have to change anything to do with the light switch itself; it still needs a 12V supply, and the 'switched' 12V outputs from it for the dip and main will be needed to operate the relays. Earth the relays (term 85) via whatever screw is used to mount them to the bulkhead.

or get fused relays

So it will be Ok to put 12v into term #85 of the relay as well as 12v to term #30

That's term#86 not #85 which is grnd. Sorry

Socaro, it is possible to edit a post, instead of just correcting it with another, sometimes that will make things clearer.

When the lights are on, there must be 12v going to both terminals #86 and #30.

Terminal #30 must have a permanent power source, preferably via a fuse.

Terminal #86 must be fed with 12v from the light switch.

i followed that diagram and it works fine,
i used fused relays, also fine!!

Socarco, it might help if you have an understanding of how the relay works.

Terminals 85 and 86 go to an electromagnet inside the relay. This only requires a small current to operate it, so this means the light switch on your column now only has to handle this small current. (It also doesn't actually matter which terminal gets the 12V from your light switch and which is connected to earth, although 'convention' has it that 86 is connected to your switch and 85 gets earthed.)

With these two connected, turning on your light switch will make the relay go 'click'!

This 'click' is the electromagnet doing its job of closing a separate, heavy-duty switch inside the relay. Like all standard switches, this one has two terminals - in this case 30 and 87. Again, like all normal switches, it doesn't matter which way around you connect them although - again - convention says feed your (hopefully fused) 12V supply in to term 30, and term 87 then supplies whatever it needs to (eg: your lights).

The point of the relay is that the switch inside (terms 30 & 87) is designed to carry heavy current loads, but the electromagnet that operates it only needs a small current.

Therefore you are moving the heavy load that your light switch usually has to carry and passing that job on to the relay to do.

(As mentioned above, fused relays make a lot of sense, although if you've already bought unfused types just fit your fuse on the input terminal 30, but as far up the line as you can so as much wiring is protected as possible!)