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Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition
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haryg
2CV Fan
Joined: August 10th, 2010, 2:46 pm
Posts: 51
Location: Beckenham Kent UK
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 Re: Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition I would certainly like a look at the wiring of a twin coil set up.
Cheers
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A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new. (Albert Einstein )
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| February 23rd, 2011, 10:11 pm |
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blackjack
Firing on two.
Joined: February 21st, 2011, 7:37 pm
Posts: 103
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Re: Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition Here you go; 
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| February 23rd, 2011, 10:19 pm |
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Sean
Firing on two.
Joined: April 22nd, 2009, 11:06 pm
Posts: 3684
Location: Ecosse
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Re: Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition fingers crossed? why? dont you believe us 
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Kissing the Lash
"Any advice of a technical nature is given on the understanding that I've actually done this shit, not just read about it in D*lly club mag some time ago.
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| February 23rd, 2011, 11:33 pm |
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ken
Agony Aunt - You have a car problem? Speak to Ken
Joined: March 6th, 2009, 1:40 am
Posts: 3675
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Re: Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition blackjack, out of interest, can you recall what the primary resistance was on that Harley coil which overloaded a 123 unit? Also curious as to whether the Ford coils you're using are ballast resistor type, since it's more common to use 2 x 6 volt coils when they're connected in series. Mind you, 12 volt coils are unlikely to overheat when they're only having 6 volts applied to them...  ken. blackjack wrote: 123 gave me one of their units to test many years ago. I was using it with a Harley coil - I didn't tell them I was going to but they didn't tell me I shouldn't.
The car died 300 miles from home because the coil was the wrong resistance and the 123 unit got so hot all the solder melted out. Fortunately I was able to find a 2CV in a local scrapyard and pulled all the standard ignition parts to convert back and get me home. Don't think I would find one so easily today.
I now use a Boyer Brandsen - this gives the points a longer life and gets rid of the condensor (quality of these is piss poor now). I also use two 12v Ford coils - these are cheap, good quality ones are easy to find and they never, ever overheat. Another benefit is that one coil per cylinder gives a very strong spark and you can make the HT leads very short.
A great advantage of this set up is it uses standard parts - you can leave the condensor fitted but not powered up and if you have any problems with the Boyer Brandsen you can simply bypass it with a loop of wire.
Total cost of this set up is around £40. I have a wiring diagram if anyone is interested.
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| February 24th, 2011, 12:18 am |
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Sean
Firing on two.
Joined: April 22nd, 2009, 11:06 pm
Posts: 3684
Location: Ecosse
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Re: Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition blackjack wrote: I now use a Boyer Brandsen - this gives the points a longer life and gets rid of the condensor (quality of these is piss poor now). ? the instructions say that you leave the condenser or at least makes no specific instructions to do anything, unlike +ve earth where the instructions are quite clear. Ill give the teck guy a phone if i get home by 4 tomorrow
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Kissing the Lash
"Any advice of a technical nature is given on the understanding that I've actually done this shit, not just read about it in D*lly club mag some time ago.
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| February 24th, 2011, 9:20 am |
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blackjack
Firing on two.
Joined: February 21st, 2011, 7:37 pm
Posts: 103
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Re: Ecas yellow coil and 123 ingnition Ken - Not sure what the resistance of the Harley coil was but it was certainly wrong. I may have it somewhere and could dig it out an run a meter across it if you're interested. I use unballasted 12v coils - if you buy them from Premier Wiring tell Alan what you're using them for and he'll send you the right ones. The wiring diagram was developed by a member of the club I run. He was a highly qualified electrical engineer for the MOD and he looked at all the options - wiring in series, in parallel, 6 or 12 volt. He also has testing and metering equipment not available to most people. After a lot of testing, this was what he came up with and my car has done 60,000+ miles on it - other members have done many miles too with no ignition problems and no collapsing coils.
Sean - I have run Boyer Bransen with and without condensors. Their tech guy says that a condensor is no longer necessary as the points are run as an LT switch and are not subject to HT current when the BB is connected. I keep it there so that in the very unlikely event of the BB packing in I can switch back to standard ignition. My BB is wired in using a multi-connector and I have a spare module that has two connections jumped. This can be fitted in seconds and takes the BB out of the circuit.
The condensor is reason enough to use a Boyer - take a look at an OEM one from the 60's or 70's and compare it to a brand new one. The new one looks like it has been thrown together and the original looks a quality bit of kit. As with everything now, they are made in China or Taiwan. Their solution to quality control is to give the customer a replacement if there's a problem. This just wouldn't do when every daily driver used a condensor. However, now that only classics (used for playing in) have them, no-one really cares.
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| February 24th, 2011, 12:01 pm |
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