New member, first post...

Have recently completed the restoration of this...



She's finally returned to the road after a 15 year on - off rebuild with the oft told story of failed promises and dubious work by a couple of garages. It ran beautifully when laid up but is now gutless, holds back under acceleration and struggles to do 50mph unless there's a tail wind.

The tank has been flushed, there's a complete new fuel line and hoses, a replacement lift pump, an inline filter fitted and I've blown out and kitted the carburettor. The exhaust has been checked and is not blocked by mice nests or loose baffles.

When accelerating, pulling out the choke makes the car run much better, which confirms to me that the problem is probably with the carb. I've heard talk that it's likely that the second choke is at fault, that it's common and that the carburettor passages will be blocked and apparently impossible to clean out. Can anyone please confirm this or suggest a fix before I splash out on a new carburettor...

Please and thank you...

Neil

Dismantle it and try to find a ultra-sonic bath where you can put everyting in...

over here in Holland ultrasonic bathes are advertised for around 10 euro.....

Otherwise try to clean it in fresh petrol, pull all the jets and clean up everything..

Also put in a petrol filter in the fuel line, just befor the carb inlet.. so no new debrie can go into the carb..

otherwise welcome to the forum and nice car you have..

Check for false air suction, maybe there is a leak between carb/manifold/head

Is it definitely timed up right?

Hi Russel, It goes like a rocket if the choke is pulled out during acceleration which leads me to believe the ignition is fine and the fault is in the carburation...

An airlock somewhere is a possibility like AZS says, happened to me. Are the carb gaskets little nice and flat.

maybe mixture is to poor.

what could possibly be airlocked in a single pipe system? what happened in the past?

OP,basic service set the timing check the fuel lines and pump. Then check for induction leaks before doing anything carb related.
check its all clean and clear check the 2nd butterfly closes and once its all done then set the bypass/idle jet.

OK, may not being talking the same terminology then, I mean air leak between carb and inlet manifold..

Really as you say, check it is all bolted down correctly and make sure it is clean. If it is shiny it will work

"drawing air" as the pump sucks for most of its run the lift between the top of the fuel in the tank when its nearly empty and the top of the tank means that the fuel line from the pump back to the tank is below atmospheric pressure and so air is drawn in through the dodgy bit rubber on the top of the tank.

in the 90s there was a real thing for the cars being "vapour locked " when hot. in the time it took the well meaning mechanic to strip the carb and re assemble (achieving what i dont know) the coil had cooled sufficiently for the car to start and re join the "convoy" (which was a big activity in the 80-90s), i remember John Marris and myself driving down the row of Vapor locked vehicles passing out our spare cool coils