Rob will it all fit in the new Apartment ?

Brian.....

Can you explain a bit more about how you refurbished the batteurs?

Well Sam, all the frotts on this flamer are preset.

Greasy Frotteur by Robndaisy, on Flickr

Greasy Frotteur by Robndaisy, on Flickr

They were soaked in grease 'cos the arm bearings had been liberally greased.

so much grease that the frotteur was non-stick! by Robndaisy, on Flickr

This was good for the bearings so I could reuse them. Not good for the frotts though, I prised and wedged the plates apart enough so I could degrease them with petrol and blew 'em dry. When I came to trial fit them to the crosstubes, one had bust the lug that the circular spring works against. Rather than source a replacement, I chose to open it up, weld a new lug on and make a clumsy repair that will work...probably! It's just 20mm. studding with a heavy washer welded on one end and a nut on the other which will have a pin through it and drilled 12mm. so I can get the fitting tool to operate
The photos on Flickr show how I did it.

P1000731 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

Got a measurement first before releasing the strong spring.

P1000732 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

The circular spring keeps tension on the hardened plates so they don't chatter when on the lugs of the crosstube.
Hope that helps. It's hard to explain so if you need more clarification please don't hesitate

That's amazing, what a clever piece of kit... although I did actually mean the batteurs

Yeah you did, sorry!
The Batts all passed the 'jumping bean' test, so I emptied out the old oil out via the filler plug(and a couple only showed a trace) and refilled with 50ml. of LHM. I annealed the copper washer that sits under the plug and refitted.
For any more surgical work to free seized ones, Ken has a photo of the Batteur cut open on his SLC Flickr and there are posts/threads about them on here (I think) and certainly on 2cvgb.
Hope that'll help.

It does, is the filler cap that little nipple at the bottom? I'd like to do the same to mine.

where's the floor gone? by Robndaisy, on Flickr

Filler is on the top when on the vehicle, there's a copper washer under the filler plug.

P1000826 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

I can't remember if this a front or rear batt. but at least one of the studs on each one has a taper mount(pictured on the right and damaged before I arrived ) so you need to back the castle nut off flush with the end of the stud and shock it carefully to release the flamer. 10mm. threads so could be replaced with nylok nuts. Have fun.

Rob not seen the pic of the missing floor!
Your are a brave man to tackle that restoration.

When I first got it I thought I'd just patch it up
The only reason I could fix it was due to the availability of Janez's excellent panels which all fitted perfectly and showed up the 'middle aged spread' and accident damage to the bodyshell.
Never again though, it's taking me much longer than I thought and haven't got near the flamin' engine yet

P1000904 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

P1000905 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

P1000911 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

Nice to know my thumbs are still strong enough to put bends in the flamer!

P1000912 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

Adjusting the new brake pipe on the rear arm. It won't fit like the original but the P clip will retain.

P1000909 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

P1000910 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

New flexible pipes are on order, the other end of them meets the cross chassis pipe at these angle brackets which bolt onto the bottom flange of the chassis. Banjo heads are 19mm. socket etc. torque settings seem to be between 14-24 ft/lbs.