It will, everything does.

Timeless?

For racing yes. For everyday road use you must be mad.

Why? It's a bit of fun, it's free and it makes your car look and go better.



YAWN. Bored of that argument now.

nothing wrong with lows, static lows even better.
russ, i'm in Norfolk. I've built a couple of hotrods(a ford pop and a Hillman gasser) so when it comes to putting the caster right I might need some advice!!! I've got 15mm of thread still, so 10mm safe?

Yeah it's a 1mm pitch on the thread, some people might be all gay about it but generally 10mm or ten full turns is ok. You might want to use locknuts though, never had one actually fall out or unwind and to be honest it's not usually a disaster if it did, it'll just land on the axle bolts and cut a big old groove in the road. Late cars had locknuts on the rear, worth finding some.

I usually turn the kingpin eye in the arm forwards by 5-7mm and wedge the bottom out 3mm to give some camber. It's pretty simple, one of the blokes on snail did some decent diagrams of it.

cheers, only changed the caster on a leaf spring front end using steel wedges. I can understand what needs doing, will hunt out them diagrams.

thanks chris.

one panel replaced!!!
first job, remove boot lid, easy as there are no end caps!!!
just slide it off.


as you can see, rather rusty!!!


rather a lot missing.




and how it should look.



back together and re-taped.



found the end caps under the dash!!

hope to get new hood material/sheet tomorrow.

this is what was left of the window surround!!!
not a lot.




plan of attack was to remove hood including rear window, then cover with aluminium sheet but still having a opening hood section at front.



a few more fixings are needed.









got to paint this metal panel in between.





got to get some black boat acrylic material to make new front hood section.



I want to fit an oval rear window.

also relocated the front no/plate onto the bumper.