cheers guys,
banjo, its not as bad as it looks, this has been doused in phosphate so the (mainly superficial) rust inside the chassis is neutralised ( and blackened), I´m putting extra 5mm x 80 reinforcement and triangulation inside while i´m at it tomorrow and re primed then sealed with stainless, it´ll be fixed tomorrow I hope
(2 more mice nests found inside the chassis..aswell as the 2 inside the air filter and heater tubes....its basically a fun palace for mice the 2cv!)
sean. yep thanks for that it´ll have to happen to get the front part of the foot section done but at the moment untill i put the cross member in its usefull for ride height etc

at the front it hasnt been lowered yet, but the back is nearly on the bump stop due to the channeling at the back, obviously the idea is to channel as much as poss ( within reason) an d then adjust the ride height with the suspension so I should conserve a good ride...plenty of speed bumps around here so I need to be careful.
for me a citroen is all about having the back wheel hidden under the spats ,

question the steering rod universal joint thingy that people put on channeled 2cv.s is it from an ami or something? anyone know where to get the part?? I´ll be needing it soon otherwise its dead on the ground

cheers till tomorrow

I got mine from a GS it is a uni joint at both ends with the correct spigot size, just cut it in half and you will have a spare

Harley

and mine is from an Ami, put it in half (I need only 1 joint.....)

So GS, AMI where yoiu can get your hands on first...



Here are my channeling attempts viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3528&hilit=to+channel+not

Am I right in thinking some people have used UJs from C15s? If so you'll be able to pick one up easily as Spain is littered with 'em!

I think most of the race cars use C15 UJs.

sweet! c15 will be looked at at the nearest scrappy

so today , pretty good really, but really difficult to work after about 2 Oclock, the sun just burns straight into the garage.

anyway chassis welded and painted on the inside, still needing a compression plate on the top side
slung the spare wheel under the chassis to gain the lost space in the boot
cut out parts for the boot floor and half of the cockpit floor. it´l´l be done in 2 halves as the channeling is raked from a lot at the back to less at the front, not sure the dimensions yet but my feet are definatlely not gonna fit on those pedals!..all good fun, tomorrow I want to spot weld the panels and get a better idea of where I´m going with this!

heres the pix

Blimey! You don't hang around.

Sorry to say but on a lowered car the sparewheel underneath the chassis won't work, the first speedbump and your car will be stuck....... my opinion....

I know what you mean lpgo, but its mostly channeling and not lowering, its on the bump stops at the back because the body has gone down so much, the chassis is still pretty high, the channeling at the back is about 14cm, so theres essentially a 14cm hole under the chassis between the fuel tank and the lights...I´ll show you a close up tomorrow.

by the way I forgot to say. I had seen your channeling job and its what inspired me to use the stainless that I had hanging around here...so thanks for that ...did you paint it or leave it polished?

knightly..need to get it back together and at least pushable as a single entity by the beginning of september. which is when work starts again....hopefully sidney will decide to unblock his cylinders by then as thanks for all the extra bling I´m giving him!

Mine is'nt finished yet, will work on it the next month I guess, because I don't use special stainless welding wire and do normal iron and stainless with the same grinder blade I need to paint everything at the end.. otherwise the welds and grinding will have a rusty shine.....

I think putting an wheel underneath (the back end of) a chassis doesn't work on a 2cv. The springs are so soft the wheel will touch the speedbump even on normal height, but you will find out soon enough..... another thing don't lower the body more then the lowest point of the chassis otherwise you will damage your body within the first testdrive.......

I would prefer a lowest point of the body which is at least 2 or 3 cm higher then the lowest part of the chassis..... again my opinion........