Just done another bit of valve lapping, and changed a valve seal.

Only problem is, when compressing the valves, it takes one hell of lot of pressure to open up the spring... then suddenly it opens with a mighty "bang". After that, compressing and getting the collets out is straightforward. Problem is, prior to the "bang" the tension is so great on my valve compressor that the bar is getting a little bent! Any tips on how to release the tension and get the springs opening up more easily?

Hit it with a hammer!
No really. Tap the valve on the top of the stem to break the 'seal' then the compressor will not have to do that.

Or just a light tap on the compressor with a small hammer once you've got a reasonable amount of 'push' on the collet holder?
A couple of turns of the screw works with the one I've been using since I was a youngster...

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Triumph-BSA-Genu ... 20f2876d2e

Managed to get a day to myself today, so I tackled a job that I've been postponing for a while...

Beneath this innocent looking outer seam thingy lay a world of rust:


So I drilled and cut it out, to reveal more rust than I'd imagined:


So I did what I needed to do:


Cleaned it up and welded a new right-angle to the inner wing mud-flap thingy:


Then I made a new inner bit and welded that into place:




Then I welded a new piece of wing and cut it back:


Didn't have time to make a new outer seam thingy, so I gave it a squirt of Gibbs, which is absolutely brilliant at preventing rust. It can even be painted over.

I'm delving into more new territory now.

This is the carburettor that came with the van. It's a bit grimy, and hasn't seen use for a good few years.

Other than giving it a good clean up on the outside, what should I be doing to this to make sure that it works? Sorry if this sounds like a stupid bloody question, but like I say I'm in new territory and I haven't a blooming clue what I'm doing, or where to start.

Sensible advice sought!

I might be hugely patronising here, but I'll say it anyway. When you welded the outer part of the wing on I would have drilled a series of 6mm holes down it every 30-40mm and puddle welded it on instead of welding down its edge. It's more like the way citroen did it and I find it looks nicer and there's no cleaning up with a grinder at the end.

Then again, if you'd seen the right lash up and cobble job I've made on my 2cv this week you'd think I was a right prick for saying this.

Seam welding is stronger generally than spot welding - they used to seam weld rally car shells to stop them falling apart in my yoof, having said that I'm trying to plug/puddle weld the AZU coz it's more like wot Citroen used to do...

On the carb, I'm faffing around with them @ the moment, a PICS32 rather than a 34 but very similar. Your carb dosen't have the slow down dashpot for the Trafficlutch and if you haven't got it the clip for connecting the throttle rod to the carb it is the Ami one not the 2cv/AZU one - ECAS have both.
Basically, clear out any live stock & obvious crap, wash it out with petrol/carb cleaner/parts washer & blow high pressure air through all the jets & drillings. Check that the spindals aren't rattling around where the pass through the body. Taking out the jets to make sure the drillings behind them aren't full off sludge, varnish, more live stock (heifers play havock with the slow running) twigs, etc. is probably a good idea, and set it up as in the manuals - float heights, that sorta thing. If the spindal has a lot of play and is thus letting air in where you don't want it, it may be possible to bodge it with O rings or silicon sealant as a very temporary fix, or dismantal, drill out the bearing hole & bush it with brass tube or an innert plastic (I think nylon swells with petrol) but this is a bit advanced for me so someone engineeringy will have to advise on that.
Check the float valve is actually cutting off the fuel when closed, the fuel filter is clean - big bolt top right in pick below

[/quote]

Not sure what that second, tension, spring is on the accelerator pump actuating rod in the pic above but it is acting against the correct, compression, spring. The action of the pump is adjustable via the nuts on the end of the rod.
Check the diaphram in the accelerator pump is intact & flat - not split or so wrinkly & stretched that it is doing nowt - under the plate with the arm in & the 4 cheese head screws below



The little springs in the choke mechanism can get lost or lose their tension and the mechanism can be stiff so make sure they are there and it's all free.

Hope that's some use.

As citroenboat say's
But I would also replace the seal between the upper and lower part of the carb. ( make sure you get the right ones).
And the diaphram of the accelerator pump any way, it caused problems with my carb. and it took a long time before i found out.
That extra spring on the accelerator pump-lever is not as it should , get it off .

It is the same carb. as i have in my AZU .

I love your workshop !

When your wife is out ...
Clean the carb. in the dishwasher

and immediatly blow it dry afterwards....to prevent oxydation.