It's felt rather like that too!

Anyway, now she's home and out the corner of a dingy workshop, I've had a good look over her and can confirm that after 13 years and 500 quid paid out, she's in much worse shape than she was when we dropped her off.

That said, she's got a fair amount of surface corrosion but no rot so I guess that has to be a good thing really?

Lucky that you managed to get it back, and the body is in good shape. Just a rechassis and repaint?

It's already got a galvo. Looks pretty solid bodily. Just give it a good vacuum.

Oh. I get it now. You spotted the logo on the car foundation. He He

Hmmmm, yes.

The chassis I took it off was from a no longer tading specialist in Somerset and had a different wheelbase from one side to the other. By about an inch!

If I could afford a genuine chassis, I would purchase one but alas, I'm skint!

Just add some extra gusseting to it.

Spanners, what are your plans for the priming and undercoating? Have you looked into 'etch' type primers? Or spray-on 'hi-zinc' coatings? Or any other type of anti-corrosion primers/undercoats?

I ask since you are planning to do the work yourself, and O-N has commented on how 'soft' cellulose can be - it can be soul-destroying to have to touch up little chips and spots or surface rust within a year of carrying out a full resto.

I wonder what the best stuff to use is - DIY stuff, I mean? I wonder if it's even worth having the bodywork epoxy-primed professionally and then you do the top coats yourself afterwards? If you do all the preparation beforehand and are prepared to tidy it up afterwards prior to top coating, then all the pros have to do is pile it on - shouldn't cost too much, surely? Will celli go on top of epoxy? (I'd have thought it would be ok, but don't know for sure.)

You can epoxy prime yourself DA. http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm

That's what I'm using next on bare steel instead of etch prime. They reckon it adhere's six times better than etch primer, and is as tough as it gets. Even if the top coat chips it won't breach the primer and so no rust.

Anything you ask a pro to do will be expensive, unless you have a deal going on between you.