To recap on my carb problems:

Two broken springs on my throttle return arm/spindle.

Removed old carb and gave it a ruddy good clean up with Gunk and spray carb cleaner. Took off the old spindle and managed to bend it! Rendering it useless.
Dug out spare carb, cleaned it up, but one spring broken on that too, plus screw heads on the butterflies worn so could not dismantle spindle.

Dirty carb.

Finally found another spare carb attached to my mystery spare engine (previous history unknown). It was thickly clad in oil and sawdust. I gave that a clean up too and found that both springs are fully working! So I carefully dismantled the spindle this time. Then fitted it to the original carb (better the devil you know) to make one fully functioning trumpet.

Clean carb.

I did buy spare springs from ECAS which intended to fit. But this requires grinding the end of the old spindle off (it’s peened on) to release outer spring, then welding back after. To be honest I’m not rich in spare time and don’t have any welding gear. So the swap suited me fine, but I now have the spares if they go in the future.

I fitted a new gasket on the bottom of the carb, new throttle return spring and bolted carb back on with my bespoke carb spanner. Car fired up fairly readily. The accelerator feels allot firmer. The pedal is hard at first, then wump it moves easier, so not subtle in low speed situations around town. But no backfires and smoother rev range. The old carb setup seemed to have more crude oomph but that may be down to the carb being stuck open most the time. The car is quieter out on the road.

Test run.

P.S. Sorry for the massive pictures, Photobucket is in one of its moods.


My mechanic giving the final once over.

Ah yes,teach them young Ben,in the way of the Citroen

Got my van carb back from CarbEx today



£95 and they've replaced everything. If it runs half as good as it looks it's a bargain.

You could eat your dinner off that Sam

With a bit of hosepipe to my ear, I listened around my rasping car, bingo, flatulence located in the bottom of the crossbox. I will nurse it with a Holt’s bandage and a wodge of Gun Gum. Then I will order a new cross box. Any sundries I should order in with the crossbox, clips, etc? Top tips for an easy fix welcome too.

Pot of copper grease

Replace clamps of needs be
Do t use exhaust paste

Ok clamps will go on the list, copper grease is in stock at the EB2cv garage
Cheers James.

Few weeks ago now I changed my speedo cable.
No dramas, I just followed the good directions in the 2cvGB Handbook.
Getting the gearbox end of the cable back in properly was a real fiddle-bitch of a task.
I took some supasnaps while going about my business for your viewing pleasure.

Here is where the cable goes in the back of the gearbox, it was messy as a donkey's arse down there.

That there, is the bolt that holds the cable in gearbox end, and the gear and plastic case that plopped out of the gearbox

Thems me cables, black old one and long grey new one

This is where the cable comes out speedo area, the rubber dognut flange is a real tosser to get in and out

Does your speedo click now Ben?
If not,you are really lucky.I fitted a new cable ages ago,it took almost 6 months to stop it clicking/ticking.A right pain in the arse.More annoying really.

Dave there is a bit of a tick and a needle flick up to about 15mph then it seems to smooth out. As the new cable is much longer I have had to cable tie it back in places so it does not get in the way of the pedals. At the same time I have tried to avoid any kinks/sharp turns as that can cause ticking and jerking.

I also read (not sure if true) that oil will come up the cable from the gearbox to lubricate things. Maybe your cable has taken time to suck up the oil?