Loose fitting of any system is always the way to go,so you can jiggle it about to get all your mating joints right, especially the flare and taper at manifold and heat exchangers on a 2cv. Ideally you want no stress at any joint other than from the clamps. So when it's all tightened up the rubber hanging points are just that ,hanging and not under any strain.

Just to illustrate the point I've had a couple of K100 BMW bikes which on the earlier ones had a habit of breaking the exhaust just where the four pipes enter the silencer.Once I'd got the system off as a complete unit pipes and silencer. I could see that the cracks radiated from the short stubs on the silencer. I brazed these cracks to fix and as I offered the system back up you had to force the system up to it's two rubber mounts on the silencer.I already knew that there had been fractures of that mounting plate recorded..I made a plate that allowed the system hang from the rubber mountings without any strain.The repair I made by brazing is still good some 12 years or more down the line,which surely would have failed if I'd put it back as per factory..

Ken I don't think the twat took the wings off, which is why he was huffing and puffing about the job.

It is annoying as I offered to leave him my Haynes and 2cv handbook should he need any tips. His pride kicked in and said no need for that I know what I am doing - does he bollocks!

I tried to save my self some leisure time, which is in short supply, and get someone else do it. Now looks like I will have to do it anyway. Sounds like slack it all up, lube it with slip, pop off the wings and have good jiggle. Wife will not be impressed.

Thanks for the tips lads.



Here is the boy listening out for further leaks in the system.

Top tip. Never take ypur 2cv to a garage

No,take it to a chiropadist

Wings off for the cross box reshuffle.

Here is the missing link (bolt) to the gear box.

I have started loosening all bolts on the clamps.
The heat exchangers seem quite crusty, will get them off for inspection.

As mentioned, I want to swap over carb manifold too. You can see the Holts bandage holding back the storm.

Odd thing some studs on the manifold have nuts, some seem bolted on, see here. Is this normal? I am soaking these in duck oil before having a go at them too.

You should find the exhaust side of the manifold is secured with studs and nuts, whilst the inlet side is secured with bolts.

If you can try and use a socket with full hex profile on the inside - the usual ones have the star shape inside. This way less chance of rounding the nuts etc. I have had the stud come out of the head instead of the rusted nut coming off so do not worry.

Thanks chaps, all quite normal then, that makes a change:-)

If the nuts & studs are as rusty as that one on the offside front, you'd probably be better off splitting the nut with a small, good quality chisel to minimise the chances of shearing the studs, as replacing those can be quite a game.

I'd also suggest using solid brass nuts when you refit the manifold...
http://www.lambrettaupgrades.co.uk/brass-exhaust-nuts

ken

Thanks Ken, I have brought new nuts already from ECAS as I assumed that they might need replacing.

No sure I trust myself with a hammer and chisel. I can see myself twating away with the chisel and knocking the nut and stud off. Only got wood chisels too.

I'm sure I have seen some sort or nut breaker tool that drills into the nut then splits it, maybe that would be safer in novice hands?