Russell wrote:
.......or better still, Velcro the amount of times you remove it. 
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| 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs http://www.international2cvfriends.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1754 |
Page 39 of 44 |
| Author: | Squeezebox [ May 18th, 2012, 7:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
Russell wrote: .......or better still, Velcro the amount of times you remove it.
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| Author: | J-dub [ May 20th, 2012, 12:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
Coat 3 (or is it 4..?) I'm not convinced brushing waxoyl on is the best way.. Takes 48 hours just to go tacky!!  Don't know if it's the lack of mixing (well shaking) the can, and me getting the thinner stuff on top..? I gave the can a mass shake after it had warmed up... Amazing how far a little bit of waxoyl goes I'm not sure if I'm applying much at all by brushing. But spraying is out of the question completely Oh well whatever A few pointless pics (looks just the same.!)   I've no idea if anyone is interested in reading my, perhaps boring fettling, but anyway there you go !! |
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| Author: | knightley [ May 20th, 2012, 12:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
Waxoyl underseal which is what you are using doesn't dry. I've used it and don't like it for that reason. The underseal version is not to be confused with original Waxoyl which is a cavity wax/oil. |
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| Author: | J-dub [ May 20th, 2012, 12:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
I know it doesn't dry, but it was as wet as I'd painted if on after 24 hours. I'm sure it'll be fine I rAte waxoyl after seeing how well my car lasted underneath |
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| Author: | ken [ May 20th, 2012, 2:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
Errr, that's the whole point, isn't it? Underseal which dries tend to be brittle, with cracks forming and corrosion occurring beneath the hardened 'crust'. Rather like 2 pack paint which has been applied with inadequate preparation, come to think of it.  ken ( Back in the day when I had a 'proper' job, I recall grease paint being used on the inside of box girder bridges, with one of its principal advantages being its resistance to drying out. http://www.marineandprotectivecoatings. ... Finish.pdf .) knightley wrote: Waxoyl underseal which is what you are using doesn't dry. I've used it and don't like it for that reason. |
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| Author: | Sean [ May 20th, 2012, 7:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
that black waxoyle is the best far better than the old pitch and sand stuff that trapped water underneath |
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| Author: | Russell [ May 20th, 2012, 7:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
You know that stuff catches fire like nothing you've ever seen before? It's going to make Gary's work of welding your floors in a bit of a challenge. |
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| Author: | J-dub [ May 20th, 2012, 7:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
That's why I'm not plastering the floors and such. Edit I see what you actually mean On sure it'll be ok. ! |
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| Author: | dave 411 [ May 20th, 2012, 8:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
Your posts are always good reading James,just keep em coming  .Whos cara? |
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| Author: | J-dub [ May 20th, 2012, 8:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 1988 2cv D*lly bits and bobs |
Thanks dave  I wish the waxoyl looked as smooth in real life. But I geuss my pound land paintbrush (pack of 6) isn't really helping But nor am I buying a Harris brush !!! |
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