I discovered today, that when removing the rocker covers some of the oil runs into the cowling. There's was no leak but enough dripping and squirting to make me take off the cowling and clean it out - there was quite a lot in there.

Could be worth checking?

Pinhole in pushrod tube due to corrosion set up my the steel washer. Clean it really well with solvent and araldite or the likes for an almost permanent temporary repair.

Thanks for the suggestions of the hole in the pushrod tube, I will get a look at it.

The rocker cover is new, both old ones were slightly bent (rocked a bit on a flat surface, new one doesn't) and they all leak about the same. Seal currently on there is a new reusable Burton one.

I am now losing the storage where I keep it, so this might end up being pushed back a bit.

Quick update on this, not a lot has changed. I was given a spare carb, which I've cleaned up and put on and the car now runs far more smoothly, and now idles correctly. This does at least give me a chance to look at the original carb properly off the car.

The big flat spot when cold has got worse now, to the point where it feels like there is just no fuel when you accelerate after a cold start. Same as before however, once warmed up it's fine. The new carb with a proper idle has let me do a better test for air leaks round the manifold joins and carb base, but spraying brake cleaner there doesn't seem to have any effect on the RPM. The only leak of any sort I could find is the breather to airbox pipe has split, so theres a nice mist of oil coming out.

One thing I did notice is that when the accelerator is fully pressed, the carb butterflies are going past fully open and slightly closing the other way. I seem to be missing the adjuster clip for the plastic tube that goes through the cable bracket, so I've picked one of them up today.

Also, the spring tensioner looking thing at the bulkhead appears to have come out of the bulkhead and is just flopping around, and I can't get it back in, the hole seems too small. Is there a proper way of getting it back in place and setup? EDIT: Worked this out now, got it back in place.

Thanks.

Cleaned up some of the wiring today which seems to have helped with the charging issues. I'm seeing a maximum of 14.7v now, which is an improvement over the 15/15.1 from before.

While I was on, I found a couple of bits of wiring that looked strange.

(The above was pre-cleaning!)



Is this where a dim dip setup used to be? That red bullet that's hanging on the bulkhead doesn't have anything on the "other" side to connect to.

Also, the voltage regulator I have seems to be an older style to what I've seen - do I need to do any maintenance here?



Fuel gauge packed in when I finished up here. It's looked like it was sticking for a few weeks, but now won't go above 0, even on a full tank.

Sorry Adam, no one seems to have answered your queries, you've probably worked it out for yourself now. But if not, the first picture does indeed look like the sockets for the dim-dip relays, although I wouldn't have expected an '85 car to have had it fitted.
The red connector you mention would have been for the brake lights, but if they're working then I guess someone must have run another wire to them.

the socket if it is near the firewall will be for the voltage regulator. no dip-dim relays on a 2cv.

On UK 2CVs (RHD), dim-dip was fitted from about 1987 onwards and even if this is a 1985 car, it's not unknown for wiring looms to have been replaced...

Thanks, I did manage to find a picture later on. There are a couple of bits of evidence that there has been some wiring damage at some point, so explains the later front loom.