Rather a nice automotive sculpture u have there joolz. Nice use of drainpipe

An issue with the new gearbox showed up on the way back from Chateau Brian, when my attention was drawn to an unpleasant burning smell, and the brakes pulling to the left. I stopped to check the new oil pipes weren't touching the exhaust, and noticed oil running down the side of the gearbox. It's coming out of the speedo drive which on my 5-sp box is perfectly placed to then leak over the righthand disc. On the plus side it's quite easy to get to as it sits over the final drive. I'm wondering if there's any sort of seal missing from it, I realise it's not a 2cv part so quite possibly no ones familiar with it but no harm in asking.

The oil seems to be coming out between the plastic housing tube and the central dive shaft. Towards the bottom of the shaft there is a sort of scroll cut in the shaft, perhaps Citroen thought that a combination of this and gravity would be sufficient to keep the oil in, but it seems not at the moment.





It occurred to me that perhaps the seal should be between the plastic housing and the cable end instead, so long as the oil doesn't get all the way up the cable and into the speedo itself. I notice with the cable pushed fully home the grove for the circlip doesn't line up, the cable needs pulling back out slightly. Perhaps there should be an O-ring under it. The other possibility is that the 2cv cable isn't exactly the same as a GSA one.
Edit: As JW has just reminded me, the 2cv cable is normally retained by a bolt, so seems quite likely that the cable ends are different.

Any thoughts?

I take it you have the clip that fits round that flat in the plastic towards the top and holds the cable in abit? I have a bit of bent split pin. If you have it, any pictures?

Think the speedo is the only part that doesnt leak on my engine and gearbox! (I think) I have a 2cv speedo linked with a cable looking similar to yours to the GSA 5 Speed box, far easier to get in and out than a 2cv one although i drove back from the Czech meeting without a speedo and a wine bottle cork shoved in it!

This is the clip Tim, not exactly sophisticated.



If no-one has any better suggestions then I might just wrap the cable end in PTFE tape until it's a tight fit and see if that stops it.

oh, I have the proper clip then... genius!

Does anyone know if I can get a replacement seal for a locking filler cap? I hold my breath every year as the MOT man checks it, so far it stops just short of the sealing bit but I probably ought to do something about it before it becomes a problem.
My money's on Sean recommending a trip to Lidl for a baking tray.

Not Lidl, but same idea.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NITRILE-RUBBE ... 500wt_1180

dont be ridiculous! a cupcake mould should do it

or nick the rubber out of one of these - often found at the side of the road
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Emergency-Petrol-Diesel-Fuel-Cap-Car-Van-/330449404255?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf051c15f

Hey Joolz,

I'm working on the same mounting system as you have done here.
What is holding the Transit bushes inside the tube? interference fit?
What is the tube ID, is it seamless?
I'm having trouble sourcing seamless tube of the correct size for the bushings I wanted to use: http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=47031&sans_vehicle=1 or http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=48165&sans_vehicle=1

Cheers,

Harley

Harley,

I gave the bushes to the local machine shop and asked them to turn up the tubes to fit, I don't know what they started with could have been thick wall tube or even solid bar. IIRC the tubes are 2" external diameter and 45mm internal to fit the bush, I have another set at work as I was thinking about maybe changing the front mounts at some point, so could check measurements if need be.

There's really no need for seamless tube from a strength point of view, or are you just thinking about the seam interfering with fitting the bush? File it out?

How hard are those Nolathane bushes? I would prefer to stick with rubber, you want to allow a bit of movement. I wondered if there'd be enough flex in the transit bushes, at a guess I'd say there is a maximum of 3-4mm of movement in them, compare that to how much the engine jumps about in a standard car. But there are no new vibrations so I'm happy with them.

I had the tubes turned out so the bushes were a light sliding fit, and I could push them in and out by hand, it makes it easier to test fit it and then take the bush back out while it's welded. If you're lucky, after welding the tube will have distorted just enough that you'll need to press the bush in with a vice. If it's still loose then a tiny tack of weld on either end should sort it.