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 Joolz's Red One 
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Agony Aunt - You have a car problem? Speak to Ken

Joined: March 6th, 2009, 1:40 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Russell,
Joolz may have lowered the outer end of the track rods, but I don't think that will have any effect on the Ackermann setup, since the relative positions of all the components are still correct in plan view.

In fact, since the car's already lowered, it's probably lessened any (very slight) tendency for bump steering to occur...

ken

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November 14th, 2011, 9:32 pm
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
ken wrote:
Russell,
since the relative positions of all the components are still correct in plan view.


ken


That's kind of what I was asking, which answers my question. Thanks.

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November 14th, 2011, 9:55 pm
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Yes, when I cut out the new arms I was careful to make sure the relative positions of the mounting bolt holes and the ball joint were the same as the original. The 30mm difference is in height above the ground(assuming the kingpin was vertical), and is because the new arm is flat, unlike the originals which curve upwards. There's now a fat fingers clearance between the track rod end and wheel rim. I did consider making the arms shorter to quicken the steering but originally decided not to. However when it came to drilling the holes I did move the the ball joint a couple of mm towards the kingpin, it won't make any noticeable difference, but I just couldn't help myself! And note I moved it directly towards the kingpin (which is some way offset from the mounting bolts), so the ackermann will remain the same.

Thanks for the link Ken, I've added it my bookmarks folder labled 'Geekery'. Just to be clear though, those are recommended maximum torques, yes?

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Also I put the bonnet back on, as predicted it doesn't close, but it's the airbox that's about 1/2" too high, hopefully I can lower it. The alternator looks like it's going to be ok, shame I kind of wanted an excuse to change it! The oil cooler pipes are touching the bonnet too, but they were anyway, I'll change them soon. As a temporary solution I've propped the bonnet open a couple of inches. Looks wank!

In more positive progress I set the tracking, checked the tyre pressures, and 'tripoded' it to set the corner heights.

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November 15th, 2011, 12:30 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Joolz, I notice you have a clip on the small end of the sliding joint gaiter. On a normal 2CV suspension set up this would cause the gaiter to rip, but maybe your lowered set up has less vertical movement, so you might be OK.

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November 15th, 2011, 1:07 am
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Agony Aunt - You have a car problem? Speak to Ken

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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Hi Joolz,
that's how I understood it as well, they've built in a factor of safety by limiting the tensile load on the bolt to 75% of its proof stress.

ken


Joolz wrote:
Thanks for the link Ken, I've added it my bookmarks folder labled 'Geekery'. Just to be clear though, those are recommended maximum torques, yes?

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Last edited by ken on November 15th, 2011, 12:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.



November 15th, 2011, 1:38 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Joolz wrote:
As a temporary solution I've propped the bonnet open a couple of inches. Looks wank!
.

Worked for Arbarth :lol:

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"Any advice of a technical nature is given on the understanding that I've actually done this shit, not just read about it in D*lly club mag some time ago.


November 15th, 2011, 9:03 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Joolz, you done anymore to this beast lately??

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May 9th, 2012, 12:44 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
Nothing of any great interest I'm afraid. I've tried to finish tidying up the airbox after hacking it about to fit under the bonnet. It's a shadow of it's former self, I don't think I ever posted a pic of it so here it is as it was,

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I was rather pleased with it, it uses a filter element from a picasso and is actually made from plywood and drainpipe. Anyway I've now chopped about 2 inches off the top of it including some of the filter which then got resealed with builders' expanding foam. It's not pretty but I guess it works :| . I've still got to find a way of re-attaching the pipe bit, or maybe I wont bother.

Other news I found this in my fotobukit, it's supposedly sound deadening but is suspiciously similar to bitumen based roof flashing. I actually stuck the first bits on last summer (nothing like keeping this up to date) and they haven't fallen off yet in either the heat or cold.

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And then just this weekend I've been repairing the top of the passenger door. Horrible to weld, so thin and the seem is full of rust. A bit of free advice to everyone, don't ignore the little patches of rust where the window has scratched the paint off, they get worse. And secondly pour some oil/wax inside the doors and tip it into all the seams, they are rusting. Oh and in case I wasn't having enough fun already, three of the four screws broke when I removed the glass, and I had to drill them out.

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I'm still looking for a replacement drivers door, I don't think it's worth repairing, and also a repair piece for the rear driver's side. Anyone got a scrap door that's still good here?

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May 9th, 2012, 1:42 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
I'll have a look but I think all my doors are probably much the same as yours there.

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May 9th, 2012, 7:29 am
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Post Re: Joolz's Red One
I have a rear door which is fine there
But I'll double check that tomorue

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May 9th, 2012, 8:15 am
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