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 nearly that time of year 
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Joined: April 24th, 2010, 10:01 am
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Post nearly that time of year
i know the rust bug never stops eating away, i know this is an on going topic, which people will argue over products, but im after some opinions

my car has been wax oyled before, not sure how long ago, but has been done before. now do i need to do it again this year, to top it up?? or not

should i just do it anyway?

any other tips to keep the car rust free during winter

id love to look at a photo in a 6 months time and to have no more rust on the car!!

what things should i do after getting home after driving down a salt gritted road? wash the car off with fresh??
is there anything i can put round the arches to stop the salt and shit going everywhere

opinoins please :D

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August 26th, 2010, 9:38 pm
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Joined: November 29th, 2008, 10:05 pm
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
Don't waste money on rustproofing products. Metal is metal, you're only delaying the inevitable. Buy a decent mig welder and Learn how to use it. Less mess and more satisfying.

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August 26th, 2010, 9:48 pm
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
brilliant answer, my uncle has a mig hes giving me, apparently its a decent one, which he doesnt want cos he doesnt weld any more..

need to learn to weld and do body work!! also was thinking, if i can find the right thickness, when i do repair jobs if i learn to weld, why not use stainless?

i think your right about delaying the enavatble russ

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1988 2cv 652cc
1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 3000cc runs on Bio Diesel
2004 Toyota Landcruiser Amazon 4200cc runs on Bio Diesel
1998 Daihatsu Hijet 1300cc
2005 Susuki Bandit 650cc


August 26th, 2010, 9:58 pm
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Joined: November 29th, 2008, 10:05 pm
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
I don't see any point using stainless. It's brittle and you're only going to weld it to something that's not stainless.

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August 26th, 2010, 10:32 pm
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
true,

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1988 2cv 652cc
1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 3000cc runs on Bio Diesel
2004 Toyota Landcruiser Amazon 4200cc runs on Bio Diesel
1998 Daihatsu Hijet 1300cc
2005 Susuki Bandit 650cc


August 26th, 2010, 11:04 pm
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
Jameswallace wrote:
brilliant answer, my uncle has a mig hes giving me, apparently its a decent one, which he doesnt want cos he doesnt weld any more..

need to learn to weld and do body work!! also was thinking, if i can find the right thickness, when i do repair jobs if i learn to weld, why not use stainless?

i think your right about delaying the enavatble russ


He's wrong. Treated correctly metal will last a long time. All it requires is that you stop oxygen an an electrolyte getting to the steel. Once you have holes all you can do is weld in new metal. If you have the beginnings of rust it is treatable. You can remove the corrosion from the metal with a phophric acid based rust killer. Paint the bare steel with a zinc rich primer followed by a good quality top coat.

Ant rust waxes are also highly effective, Bilt Hamber make one of the better ones.


August 26th, 2010, 11:17 pm
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
twofifty AZU wrote:
He's wrong.


He's trying to drum up some business...

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August 27th, 2010, 11:06 am
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
twofifty AZU wrote:

He's wrong.



Not according to some restored cars ive seen over the years.

Apparantly a hugely costly rebuild will only last 5-10 years before it totally needs doing again.

Or so it seems.

As Russ says, buy a welder, learn to use it. I dont care if you have spent 10k on a restored car and covered it with wax product. In the UK with the salt they put down and the climate a rust free car used daily all year round will have rust again in say maybe 3 years and will need tickling with the MIG. Ask a cetain 2CVB member about another set of new sills 4 years after restoration (that included sills, paint and rustproofing)

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August 27th, 2010, 11:40 am
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
Then it isn't being done right. I agree that you're never going to get a 2CV completely rust proof, but to simply let them ror on the basis that you have a MIG welder is irrational. Just to replace the main floors, boot floor, rear inner wings, windscreen aperture panel and bonnet hinge can swallow a grand's worth of new panels. It is far quicker, easier and more cost effective to invest some time and effort in corrosion prevention. Besides the vast majority of people who own a MIG welder are wholly ill equipped to make the fairly complex shapes required to properly repair things like the bottom of the doors.


Matt S wrote:
twofifty AZU wrote:

He's wrong.



Not according to some restored cars ive seen over the years.

Apparantly a hugely costly rebuild will only last 5-10 years before it totally needs doing again.

Or so it seems.

As Russ says, buy a welder, learn to use it. I dont care if you have spent 10k on a restored car and covered it with wax product. In the UK with the salt they put down and the climate a rust free car used daily all year round will have rust again in say maybe 3 years and will need tickling with the MIG. Ask a cetain 2CVB member about another set of new sills 4 years after restoration (that included sills, paint and rustproofing)


August 28th, 2010, 1:15 am
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Post Re: nearly that time of year
In my opinion, if people gave up using the crap rust prevention potions that are widely available their cars would last an awful lot longer.

Give up on the likes of 'Waxoyl' and 'Hammerite' and 'Kurust' and other such snake oils and move onto the professional or industrial stuff.

A Beetle has the same issues as a 2cv in many places. When I did my Bug ten to twelve years ago I grit blasted every bit of rust away, zinc-etch primed all the blasted bits, seam sealed every seam, did every cavity with bodyshop quality cavity wax, painted underneath and inner wings etc in high build 2-part zinc paint and finished off with two-pack polyurethane gloss.

After 10 years of use in all weathers there honestly isn't a spot of rust anywhere underneath. It looks as good as the day it was finished.

I know such stuff doesn't come cheap (and I was very lucky at the time to have a mate who worked at a place that painted steelwork for use at sea who sorted me out at a somewhat 'preferential' rate ;) ) but on balance, it's much cheaper and less hassle than having to do things again a few years later.


August 28th, 2010, 10:28 am
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