Is this the 'old' old Dyane or the 'new' one?
Check the float height, as if it's set on the high side, there may not be enough fuel in the bowl(s) to carry you round a corner at full barrel.
Also check the front ride height and the gap between the bump stops & their brackets.
If the gap is more than the recommended 3 to 6mm, the body tends to roll more, which would adversely affect the carburation during extreme cornering.

As regards the strobe, welcome to the 20th century...

ken

RT - do the cheat and just wind up the handbrake adjuster on the n/s - tbh, I never had a problem with the adjusters, although once I fitted new cylinders, I dont think they have needed adjustment since..

I'd never be happy with that ... I'd always know I'd not done it properly . I'll get the gearbox and engine out tomorrow and have a good go at the adjusters when I've got better access. I always like to give drum brakes a good going over anyway so I don't mind doing it. But they definitely need adjusting: drum brakes should be as effective as disc brakes, first push of the pedal.

Looking forward to the strobe arriving, I've been meaning to buy one for years. Presumably the wasted spark doesn't affect the strobe?
I did set the float height when I cleaned the carb up, but I'll check it tomorrow.

No problems wtht that, only easier to mount (you can take both HT leads) in a normal car you have to check for cilinder 1..........

The wasted spark won't affect the strobe unduly, in fact it will light up your timing marks on every crank rotation rather than every other rotation on a distributor system.

Watch carefully as you may see a small difference between the 2 lobes firing times and you may need to compromise on the timing on one cylinder to prevent over advancing the other.

RT.
if it's got a remote trigger, the type which clips onto a plug lead, try the trigger in both directions on the lead since one way will give a stronger signal than t'other.

If you're getting more than 1/2 tooth scatter, even after turning the points cam 180*, it's time to get the punch and small hammer out.
Careful 'dinging' of the nose which carries the cam will remove the wobble, as the last thing you want to do is run with a lot of imbalance in the timing between the cylinders.

ken

p.s. Those 220mm drum brakes will give higher readings than disc brakes on the MOT rollers when set up correctly, good enough to make my regular tester comment on them.

Started to get the engine and 'box out of the old (new) Dyane so I can sort out the front brakes. I know it seems like overkill, but access to the brake drums is so much better when the gearbox is on the bench, and it's probably less effort to take the gearbox out than it is to arse about with the brakes deep in the bowels of the car.

Shit - I forgot to give you a set of new front pads for the Dyane that I had bought for my van and then found that it had only 200mm diam ones...Yours if you want them although I doubt the ones on it are more than barely worn...

Cheers, will bear that in mind.