Something about dash...



Testing how gauges and lights work...























Need to solve an issue with fuel gauge. On full tank, the needle goes only to about half, empty is ok. The gauge is for 0-180 ohm sender, but the sender is 0-70 ohm. A little amplifier, some electronics, may solve that..?

Like analogue gauges.
You may need to adjust your "main beam" led or your Retina may complain:)

Those lights are an old fashioned bulbs, and I'm not worried about brightness. Direct fron H-D Sportster and they doesn't disturb at all on them...

I could be wrong about, but if that is too bright it's simple to fix...

Cool

how are you driving the speedo?

Hall-sensor reading teeth of gear... Again H-D -parts...



Today made some brackets to hold speedo and RPM gauges...




Oh, and if I ever get to GB with that car, I can easily swap KM/H gauge to MPH gauge. As you can see, they show correct speed, both are sent by same sensor on that testing...

Quite neat? Still some work ahead with dash...


Took the rear differential out, 4x4 worked well, but after removed RPM limiter and over-boost protection, the rear wheel drive stopped working...


The inner part, what is taken from clutch center, was installel by heating (don't know correct term in english) and also welded from holes. Wasn't strong enough, now it's welded again, with larger seams, but if that break again I need to make new design. Some idea is on my mind, hopefully I don't need them...

Funny, I didn't even feel sad after that, those happenings are only part of "motorsport"...

Jasu,
considering how difficult it is to see the speedometer on a Dyane, especially if you're above average height, I reckon that your version of the dash is how it should have been done.
Re. your 'test load' of the rear drive connection, wouldn't a 'long spline' input shaft give more purchase on the clutch disc splines?
You might even be able to double up on the clutch disc centres.
Ken
( p.s. How many 'spare' Dyanes did I see in one of the videos you posted earlier.
I thought I had a problem in that area... )

Perhaps use the "Whole" centre of the clutch plate.
Grind out the rivets then, mount using the existing rivet holes????

See

Ken, on that video, all those aren't mine, but there is some more outside, and another place also some. And those what are inside aren't "parts cars" or "spares", near rust free examples. We are decided to build some more room to have more of them inside...

Pete, there is clutch center part on gearbox output. Reason why I didn't use that on rean input, is need of carrier bearing. But after well sleeped night, I'm sure it will break again there, so that area need to redesign somehow... Maybe that axle to viscous coupler is need to make several pieces, one for bearing, then clutch center disc, and then axle for viscous, all bolted together by original holes of center but drilled larger like on gearbox output..?

And yes, it was really enjoy to see all four wheels throw gravel when the engine didn't cut-off by boost protection, just before breakdown..!