Some pics.
Assemble suspension, still some fixing of spring cans and adjustments to do.
On the wish list are AK springs as I believe they are a lower lbs/inch softer?
Anybody know the spring rate?
Rear End.

Front End.

pete,
haven't worked out the lbs/inch, but there's some info from Citroen in these tables.


Springs 1 by slcchassis, on Flickr


Springs 2 by slcchassis, on Flickr

Might be worth having a bit of a play around with calculating the rates of the springs
you've got, using this site.
http://engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm

Worth noting that with Citroen, you've got to expect the unexpected, since this was
what I found when I cut open a selection of the larger cans a while back.
I have a feeling that there's an Ami Super spring or two amongst that lot...


Springs to mix and match. by slcchassis, on Flickr

ken.

Ken thanks,
Know the rates and dimensions for a 2CV front spring by substitution should be able to determine the rate for an AK spring using http://engineersedge.com/spring_comp_calc_k.htm and use the 2CV data as a check.

Peter,
it might be best to use the calculator on that particular site as a basis for comparison, rather than to determine absolute values, since the values it spits out for 'standard' 2CV springs don't match too well with the testing I had done elsewhere.

Don't know what values you have for standard springs, but I've worked on around 800 lb/in for the fronts, with the (shorter) rears being closer to 900 lb/in.

This calculator on this site seems to be more accurate, but you only get so many freebies before they stop the fun and ask for some $$$...
http://www.planetspring.com/pages/compr ... ompression

ken.

Drive Shaft Adapters.

Drilled and Tapped Gearbox Drive Flange.


Test Fitted Adapters.

What did you tap them to, 10mm I'm guessing, 1.5 or 1.25 pitch? Much easier than finding 9mm bolts.
I should do this myself, currently got the original bolts with spacers under the heads.

Hi Joolz,
Tap 10mm x 1.5. and use 10mm socket bolt, heads need to be reduced to fit, (drill/ flap disc as i dont have a lathe).
The 9mm socket bolts are hard to get. Have tried to source these, but min quantity would be 200+
Was going to use 10mm for the drive shaft as well but not enough metal.
The adapters came from Holland, getting them copied locally for the rear-end.

Hi Guys,
Your advice is sought, have attempted to fabricate some steering arms.
See pics.
Problem – have drilled thru the arm at the pivot point to < 12mm.
The 12mm bolt is a “tight fit” in the arm.
Can torque the nut/bolt tight, to put a crush load on the rod-end and spacers.
Will the bolt move and eventually “wear out” the steering arm????
Spend so far on one arm is £16.00, so shall I bin it?

Pete,
it's surprising how difficult it can be to separate parts which have been bonded with high strength threadlocking/bearing fit compounds.

If the shank of the bolt isn't fully threaded, might be worth a shot with one of them, as they're capable of filling bondline gaps of up to 0.25mm, although the cure rate is slower then...

Trial pack;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABRO-HIGH-STR ... 1301wt_698

or giant economy size;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Loctite-290-H ... 2548wt_932

ken

Ken,
Thanks for that.
Can put the bolt in from the bottom with the permanent bonding stuff.