LPGO...Current situation.

Xantia ABS unit.


Discard electronics. Selected Valves that close the brake line, so that you can brake each wheel independently and also a valve to block the fluid return to the master cylinder.
Coil 7ohm/5volts.


Hydraulic pump


Individual lines to calipers


ABS unit and pump on Bulkhead x 2


Adaptors for blake lines


Getting ABS discs cut ( Alu) to fit on gearbox end of drive shaft.
Need to make mounting for Hall sensor.
Sensor on centre prop to detect motion?

ps
Maybe you could use any Bosch ABS modulator, even with LHM.
They have the pump built in. The pipe connections may have seals, but these could be replaced with LHM seals.
The valves and pump, I believe have no rubber parts, but will dismantle one to find out.

ABS ===> if a wheel blocks brakeoilpressure has to go down

TC ==== > if a wheel blocks the other wheel needs to brake

So I think you need to swap the brakelines from 1 side to the other!!!!! and swap the wires to the valves in should go to out and VV... so then youve got pressure insted of release and
to the wheel which spins isted of standstill (I hope you understand my poor English)

I've never seen these new units, the only thing I remember BC/CX is a block with a lot of brakepipes coming out of it........

don't you need the xantia
-brakepedal complete with lhm stuff
-hallsensors
-toothrings

But I think your on your own here...... I'm to bussy with my own devellopment (1-2-spark and may be 1-2-Inject), sorry for that.

I think it would take me at least a year to make it work, I'm sorry but I don't have the time for that (still have my own 4x4 waiting to be finished)........

I hope you understand......

1-2-traction

S-P-Traction.. So far..


Pipes on ABS unit.
1. From master cylinder
Via stop valve
2. To pump
3. Pump
4.To left brake (after stop valve)
5. To right brake. (after stop valve)

No power to abs unit allows brakes to work in normal manner, ie pass thru.
With power
Check valve between 1 and 2 closed.
Pump on
Valve 4 or 5 operates to brake the wheel.

VR condintioner circuit


Some Logic to workout what the wheels are doing?

1-2-abs
Here is a good video describing different differentials, what we are talking about here is at 3:50
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIGvhvOhLHU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Also an interesting article here about modern control systems and modifying them.

http://www.autosec.org/pubs/cars-oakland2010.pdf

Another idea...

Looking at quaife lsd and the like... surely one of a similar size could be modified for the .gs type diff... either the output shafts would need modifying or the spline input gears in the lsd itself ...

Harley

Useful info.

Quaife - Do a diff for the 2cv. Louis Barbour is the agent.
Diffs are excellent, work well in most situations.
Cost £800+
I believe they would make a GS Version, if they can get a Pre-Order of 10+.

Gripper Diffs (DaveMac)
The best set up as they work even when a wheel is off the ground.
Very difficult to fit a 2cv diff carrier, due to lack of space.

But for a GS diff, it may well be possible. One off cost £800.

Hence plan for Traction control, cost so far £100.
Still need to workout the electronics.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1108_abs_for_hot_rods/viewall.html
http://autospeed.com/cms/search/index.html?keywords=traction+control&x=34&y=5

More good articles about retro fitting and modifying traction control in the same fashion as s-p-traction.

Harley

Heres another article with a good point. When you have a brake-assistent difflock you need twice as much power to overcome the obstacle. You need to overcom brake and obstacle to make your wheels turning, I hope this will work with or low powered 2cv's

http://blog.chryslerllc.com/blog.do;jse ... 70&p=entry

@ Chrysler BLD
The required extra torque is not usually a problem especially in 4wd low range.

So not a problem for a 2CV with low ratio

Rub it in!! rub it in!! a 2cv with low ratio